When I was growing up in the small town of Preignac, in southwest France, the days of the week could be counted in culinary rituals. Wednesday was the day for […]
Recipe Box
CINCO DE MAYO
Antojitos and Mojitos
Make mine a tuna and avocado tostada with a side of mezcal
Mexicans have their botanas con bebidas down to an art. Their street-food-inspired snacks and sips range from the elegantly spare slice of jicama tossed with lime juice and sprinkled with […]
BREAD AND CIRCUS
Packing a Ploughman’s Lunch for Town Meeting
Sustenance to banish the hangry from civic life
I’m driving home to Truro from the hardware store in Provincetown when I see the poster-waving crowd on Route 6 across from the fire station. Maybe I’m going a tiny […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
The Sweet Return of the Hummingbird Cake
Never let the truth get in the way of a good dessert
Hummingbird cake, like its namesake bird, has a migration story, though it’s one that’s hard to follow. Many articles about the cake claim it was originally a creation of the […]
PASSOVER
Spring Greens and Bitter Herbs
Reflection and nourishment for the season of renewal
“April is the cruelest month,” a friend said to me recently, involuntarily quoting T.S. Eliot. I instantly understood all the ways they both meant it. The trees almost have buds, […]
FERMENT
Getting Pickled With Garrett Smythe
A cook fills his pantry with pickles and kimchi
Pickles can be polarizing. There are those who favor the fresh crunch of half sours and others who hew to the notion that its sweet edge makes the bread-and-butter pickle […]
NOLA NOTEBOOK
White Beans Fit for Springtime
A gumbo informed by tradition, though it breaks a few rules
By all rights, I should not be telling you how to make gumbo. After all, I wasn’t born and raised in New Orleans nor in any of the communities between […]
THE ESSENTIALS
Biscuits for a Charmed Brunch
Buttery and slightly crisp, the way Mary McCarthy might have liked them
The legendary bohemian community that flourished on the Outer Cape in the early to mid-20th century is known for its enormous contributions to the arts, literature, culture, politics, and social […]
ROAD TRIP
A Cape Cod Après-Skate Fondue
Lunch for friends to gather around, inspired by a tearoom tradition
One of my favorite things about living on Cape Cod when the crowds are away is that it means a chance to play tourist myself. I love taking mini-trips to […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
A Corned Beef Hash Sam Spade Would Have Approved
A cook takes a chance on a homemade version of a maligned diner tradition
If corned beef hash is on the menu, I order it. Rosy hand-cut hash with sunny eggs and steaming black coffee feels old-school, seductively noir. Like something the laconic Sam […]
FERMENT
The Rise of Sourdough Culture on Cape Cod
Local bakers love their starters and have the loaves to prove it
Making sourdough bread requires a commitment of time. If you can get hold of a friend’s mature starter and get your loaf underway now, you’ll be taking it out of […]
SAN DIEGO DISPATCH
As Sweet as a California Surfing Town Can Be
Passion fruit and cacao nibs give caramels a warm tropical note
Our annual visits to San Diego always involve tacos of every description. With Mexico less than 20 miles away, our meals here also feature extraordinary fruits and full-flavored vegetables from […]
MIREPOIX-ESQUE
Michael Ceraldi’s Carrot Sformatino
A cook follows a food memory back to its maker
I’ve seen my fair share of tasting menus but only because I’ve spent the last decade working in fine dining. If you’re lucky enough to have a job in a […]
FAT TUESDAY
Shrimp and Okra Gumbo: A Movable Mardi Gras Feast
A Truro cook carries his Louisiana traditions wherever he goes
I won’t be in New Orleans for Mardi Gras this year. We’re visiting my brother Brit and his family in Montana. But I’m not worried. My brothers and I have […]
NOURISHED
Broccoli Rabe, Right Away
Thinking ahead to put you and your greens in tender conversation
Last week, I made a joke about dropping all of my New Year’s resolutions in favor of a commitment to eat 52 different kinds of soup instead. A friend reached […]
