I attended a swanky dinner party on an early summer night when the weather was still cool enough to ward off mosquitoes and invite indulgent feasting. It was at an […]
Recipe Box
FROM THE LARDER
Planning the Next Bowlful of Risi e Bisi
Garden peas in flower a Venetian summer dish
Every year I tempt fate and plant my peas dangerously early. It’s worth the risk so that I can look out on gray, chilly spring days and see green poking up in the […]
FATHER’S DAY
Cornbread Should Not Be Sweet
Practicing Dad’s lessons in doing barbecue right
One thing my dad has learned since moving to Cape Cod from Hot Springs, Ark. is that the main difference between people here and the people he really relates to […]
THE ESSENTIALS
Calm Summer Seas Deliver Dayboat Scallop Feasts
Local cooks like them raw and seared, but in my book it’s chowder season
Living at the ocean’s edge means ready access to many rare treats local fishermen bring in. When friends arrive for summer suppers, the ones I like best, because they’re at […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
A Greek Egg-Lemon Soup That’s Truly Best
A neighborly supply chain provides the eggs for a light-yet-lush avgolemono
That lady you saw make a U-turn on Route 6 just past the handwritten roadside sign advertising “Fresh Eggs”? That might have been me. Besides that there’s no comparison between […]
KALE AND BEYOND
Lessons in Herbs, From My Salad Days
Use your greens extravagantly lest they go to waste
I love going to the grocery store almost as much as my mom hates taking me there. She says I’m a spendthrift. I prefer the term epicurean. To her point: […]
MELBOURNE DISPATCH
An Essential Condiment Comes Home From Down Under
Fragrant chili oil makes noodles and greens memorable
It’s no secret: I’m promiscuous. About condiments, that is. I’ve almost never met a condiment I didn’t like. In my experience, having some good ones on hand means almost anything […]
MOTHER’S DAY
Red Fruits and Roses for Dessert
Cold strawberry and raspberry soup that’s a big step up from Jell-O
In the garden today looking for the first signs of fruit and smelling nothing but garlic chives, I figure the Outer Cape’s first strawberries are still about three weeks out. […]
KITCHEN VIGNETTE
My Grandmother’s Buttery Mashed Potatoes
A cartoonist gets his start with a fork and a mountain of purée de patate
When I was growing up in the small town of Preignac, in southwest France, the days of the week could be counted in culinary rituals. Wednesday was the day for […]
CINCO DE MAYO
Antojitos and Mojitos
Make mine a tuna and avocado tostada with a side of mezcal
Mexicans have their botanas con bebidas down to an art. Their street-food-inspired snacks and sips range from the elegantly spare slice of jicama tossed with lime juice and sprinkled with […]
BREAD AND CIRCUS
Packing a Ploughman’s Lunch for Town Meeting
Sustenance to banish the hangry from civic life
I’m driving home to Truro from the hardware store in Provincetown when I see the poster-waving crowd on Route 6 across from the fire station. Maybe I’m going a tiny […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
The Sweet Return of the Hummingbird Cake
Never let the truth get in the way of a good dessert
Hummingbird cake, like its namesake bird, has a migration story, though it’s one that’s hard to follow. Many articles about the cake claim it was originally a creation of the […]
PASSOVER
Spring Greens and Bitter Herbs
Reflection and nourishment for the season of renewal
“April is the cruelest month,” a friend said to me recently, involuntarily quoting T.S. Eliot. I instantly understood all the ways they both meant it. The trees almost have buds, […]
FERMENT
Getting Pickled With Garrett Smythe
A cook fills his pantry with pickles and kimchi
Pickles can be polarizing. There are those who favor the fresh crunch of half sours and others who hew to the notion that its sweet edge makes the bread-and-butter pickle […]
NOLA NOTEBOOK
White Beans Fit for Springtime
A gumbo informed by tradition, though it breaks a few rules
By all rights, I should not be telling you how to make gumbo. After all, I wasn’t born and raised in New Orleans nor in any of the communities between […]
