A person can get stuck in her ways about what constitutes a good salad. Last time we were in Oklahoma for a family visit, my cousin Marge had everyone over […]
Recipe Box
COOK’S KITCHEN
The Stripers Are Here. Light Up the Grill!
To add to the thrill: a gingery peach salsa and fresh corn with miso butter
Our black wall phone rang — yes, this happened that long ago — and I heard my husband’s cousin Edward Redonnet’s excited voice on the other end. Edward is a […]
EVERYTHING ICE
Bright Pops of Summer Joy
Lime, mint, watermelon, and berries make ice pops even parents can love
Summer swept over us like a heavy blanket when we were growing up in New York City. Above ground, my twin sister and I absorbed the fumes of hot asphalt. […]
IN SEASON
Wellfleet Yearns for the Lighthouse Blueberry Muffin
Pursuit of a recipe yields an outpouring of nostalgia for the place itself
Peter Simon didn’t really plan to make blueberry muffins when he wrote his post on the Wellfleet Community Space Facebook page asking for a recipe. It was February, and with […]
THE ESSENTIALS
Julia Child’s Picnic With Henri and Paul
A tart made with onions, herbs, and (no shame here) a frozen puff pastry crust
An oddly familiar voice on the phone said, “I’ve received your letter and would very much like to contribute to your cookbook.” Momentarily stunned, I caught my breath as she […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
Roasted Strawberries Top a Cake to Love Forever
A slow-roasting technique turns berries into jammy jewels
I am a serial monogamist when it comes to seasonal fruits and vegetables. At present, I am in a deep relationship with summer strawberries. The soundtrack of this affair features […]
FROM THE LARDER
A Garlicky Aioli Is the Centerpiece of a Summer Spread
Serve on the porch with mismatched plates and plenty of room for whoever is around
It was Wa’reen who taught me how to make aioli. A taciturn African-American woman from New Orleans’s historically Creole 7th Ward, Wa’reen was the cook who ran the hors d’oeuvres […]
FRESH BAKED
A New York Expat Fills the Bagel-Shaped Hole in Her Heart
What’s not to love about a humbler homemade round?
The Upper West Side in New York City, where I grew up, is a well-known bagel pilgrimage zone. I know all the stops on the tour. Near the northern end […]
THE ESSENTIALS
Listening for the Socarrat and Other Paella-Making Secrets
Including (don’t tell Julio) an easy version that captures the essence of the dish
When my daughter Amanda and her son, Orion, started planning their annual trip to the Cape last summer, they told us they’d be traveling with a friend this time. She […]
CHEF’S REWARD
Alice Gong Rolls Her Own
The perfect rice and economy of motion are all you need for sushi at home
Alice Gong is an accidental sushi chef. “I didn’t set out to do it,” she says. “It’s just one of those things where you get a job, and it allows […]
FROM THE LARDER
A Walk in the Woods for Nettle Soup
Foraging gives a cook a break from all that produce-aisle plastic
Once again, I sigh as I browse the produce aisle at the grocery store. There, standing between me and the blueberries or kale or lettuce, is so much plastic. Those […]
FAMILY RECIPE
Gather Ye Thistles for a Spring Feast
Artichokes filled with the flavors of southern Italy
I always associate certain foods with particular holidays and times of year. Christmas dinner was synonymous with lasagna and my grandmother’s chicken and escarole soup. My birthday in October was […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
A Risotto That Recalls a ‘Where Have You Been All My Life?’ Encounter
Honoring spring asparagus with a less-is-more version of a classic
Those ho-hum bundles flown in from the other hemisphere most of the year can’t fool me. I like to wait for real asparagus — and it’s finally here. The green […]
THE ESSSENTIALS
The Squid Season Starts With a Stew
A lightly seasoned Italian take on a Provincetown tradition
They’re here! After spending the winter offshore, squid arrive when the waters around Cape Cod begin to warm up. They come to spawn, with activity peaking from late April until […]
FROM THE LARDER
Subtle and Ethereal Homemade Ricotta
Make it once and you’ll understand why it’s worth the trip
It’s the end of our stay in my other hometown. We fill the car with our suitcases plus all our Mardi Gras accoutrements, including wigs, hats, a sequined dress, and […]