Those ho-hum bundles flown in from the other hemisphere most of the year can’t fool me. I like to wait for real asparagus — and it’s finally here. The green […]
MEXICO CITY DISPATCH
The Art of the Breakfast Taco
In both murals and markets, a culture of corn and chiles reveals itself
I knew a winter trip to Mexico City would be a chance to improve my rusty Spanish and eat (a lot). This time I also found myself learning about art. […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
Nun’s Farts Are Dunkers to Sigh For
A donut devotee makes heavenly fritters for Fat Tuesday
Mardi Gras, a.k.a. Fat Tuesday, is next week — the last hurrah before the 40 days of fasting and self-reflection of Lent begin, for those who observe it. Besides prompting […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
A Dumpling to Keep You Cozy Through a Long Winter’s Night
Practice makes for perfect, pillowy potato gnocchi
January’s sun sets smack down in the center of Blackfish Creek tinting the clouds beyond my back window a cotton-candy pastel. It’s stop-in-your-tracks gorgeous Cape Cod light. And every bit […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
Gougères Are the Little Black Dress of Hors d’Oeuvres
Simple and elegant crisp-tender cheese puffs are the ideal bites with bubbly
Of all the dips, spreads, noshes, and nibbles I have served, there is one that I make for holiday parties year after year: gougères. They always get raves. Gougères are […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
On Thanksgiving, the Sides Are Where Things Get Interesting
Serving up something rich, something foraged, and something green
The Thanksgiving menu is a complex one in which each dish fits into a matrix of nostalgia, identity, excess, creativity, and flavor. At the center is that once-a-year big bird, […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
Election Day Cake
Boozy, nutty, and not too sweet: a recipe made for the midterms
The Puritans were not a fun-loving bunch. Case in point — this declaration posted in Boston in 1659: “Public Notice: the observation of Christmas having been deemed a sacrilege, the […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
Tucking the Earthy, Spicy, Fruity Flavors of Fall Into One Simple Taco
Wild mushrooms, winter squash, smoked chiles, and dried cranberries mingle in a warm tortilla
I love the freedom and creativity of the taco. So many delicious things are flattered by the earthiness of a corn tortilla, from braised beef or spice-rubbed pork to grilled […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
A Soleful Breakfast
Fresh-caught flounder, sunny eggs, ripe tomatoes, and a good cup of coffee start a sailor’s weekend
Cooking with friends who also love to cook puts things right for me. It’s like when musicians jam — we play, become inspired, and riff on classics, and our payoff […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
Corn Chowder With BLT Salsa Is a Marriage Made in August
A light, no-cream soup is the base for a bacon, herb, and tomato topping
When my next-door neighbor left a bag of local corn and tomatoes on my doorstep, it was like Christmas in July. I am polyamorous when it comes to corn and […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
A Gift of Preserved Lemons Awakens a Mussel Memory
Chatham mussels meld deliciously with North African flavors
Mussels will always seem glamorous to me. The first time I had them, they were presented so artfully: a small woman carrying a steaming, oversized stainless-steel pot walked into the […]
BACKYARD KITCHEN
The Secret to Chicken That’s Grilled but Not Charred
Listening to Johnny Cash leads a cook to build a ‘ring of fire’
Grilling is one of the great joys of summer. There’s that distinctive smoky flavor, that primal connection to the live fire outside, drink in hand. Not to mention no hot […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
Mangoes for Mother’s Day
Gifts to thank moms, both the sweet-tart and the spicy types
I was 10 years old when I had my first mango. It was on a rare trip with my dad to the island of Grand Cayman — before it became […]
MOTHER’S DAY
Learning to Be the Parent My Child Needs
A mother’s call to stand up and stop the haters
It was four days before my son, who is transgender, was to have gender affirming surgery, and my insurance company, Aetna, informed me that it would not be covered. This […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
Asparagus Brightens a Spring Stir Fry
A versatile gingery sauce comes together in a super-hot wok (or skillet)
You can get asparagus all year, but in November it just feels wrong. When spring arrives with its customary shyness, it’s perky asparagus that assures me that warmer days are […]
