It’s hard not to brag about the wonderful seafood we have here: the freshest bluefish, meaty striped bass, pearly scallops, hard and soft clams, and world-class oysters. I enjoy salmon […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
A Greek Egg-Lemon Soup That’s Truly Best
A neighborly supply chain provides the eggs for a light-yet-lush avgolemono
That lady you saw make a U-turn on Route 6 just past the handwritten roadside sign advertising “Fresh Eggs”? That might have been me. Besides that there’s no comparison between […]
CINCO DE MAYO
Antojitos and Mojitos
Make mine a tuna and avocado tostada with a side of mezcal
Mexicans have their botanas con bebidas down to an art. Their street-food-inspired snacks and sips range from the elegantly spare slice of jicama tossed with lime juice and sprinkled with […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
The Sweet Return of the Hummingbird Cake
Never let the truth get in the way of a good dessert
Hummingbird cake, like its namesake bird, has a migration story, though it’s one that’s hard to follow. Many articles about the cake claim it was originally a creation of the […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
A Corned Beef Hash Sam Spade Would Have Approved
A cook takes a chance on a homemade version of a maligned diner tradition
If corned beef hash is on the menu, I order it. Rosy hand-cut hash with sunny eggs and steaming black coffee feels old-school, seductively noir. Like something the laconic Sam […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
The Meditative Practice of Sharpening a Knife
Simple tools and patience are building blocks of a skill worth learning
At first, the idea of sharpening your own knives seems intimidating, even a little mysterious — the kind of thing that’s “only for pros.” And it’s true that chefs’ relationships […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
Maybe It’s Time to Set Your Salad on Fire
Three bitter-leaning chicories that subvert the lettuce paradigm
I recalibrate in January (we don’t say “resolutions” in our house). Right after the holidays, I am wildly enthusiastic about vegetables. Winter salads and sheet pans of roasted roots go […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
A Seafood Stew for Christmas Eve
This riff on tradition is bright with tomatoes, thyme, and a hint of orange
My mother loved the holidays. Her big splurge meal was always on Christmas Eve, when she’d proudly serve red and green in the form of lobster with spinach salad on […]
COOKIE PARTY
The Bright Sparkle of Cranberry-Orange Cookies
In a former life I oversaw a test kitchen for a food magazine. Given the long lead time needed for development, editing, and printing, that meant Christmas in July every […]
THE BERRIES
At Thanksgiving, Two Things Everyone Agrees On
Cranberries are ‘best in show’ at brunch and dinner
May this week before your Thanksgiving feast be a time of good-natured debate regarding the propriety of the presence of a turkey on the table, whether you’re discussing that dinner […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
Around a Fire, Stories Are Told, Songs Are Sung, and Dinner Is Warmed
Rediscovering the magic of the flames
As a young cook, I was drawn to vintage preindustrial cookbooks hoping to unlock past wisdom. I was often dissatisfied: the recipes were vague, too simple, kind of bland. Where […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
Great Pumpkin Soup, With Dignity
Like Linus, seeking a winter squash without a sign of hypocrisy
Sometimes I think the scariest thing about Halloween is the flood of pumpkin-spice products that appear for the season. The fact that pumpkin-spice deodorant exists hints at how ludicrous the […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
A ‘Little Fat Boy’s’ Chili-Crisp Roast Chicken
Frankie Gaw’s First Generation tells a story of pride and ‘pot holders’
The minute I cracked open Frankie Gaw’s First Generation (Ten Speed Press, 2022), a birthday gift from my son, the stunning photographs made me want to get into the kitchen. […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
A Smoky Salsa for September
Fire-roasting coaxes the best from the last tomatoes of the season
Some grumble about the end of summer. Not me. Being able to turn onto Route 6 without taking my life into my hands is one thing I celebrate. September also […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
A BOLT of Oyster Genius in a Cocktail-Size Bite
The joy of Nils Bernstein’s oyster BLTs with oyster mayo
The Joy of Oysters hit me like a BOLT — a Bacon, Oyster, Lettuce and Tomato sandwich — Nils Bernstein’s genius pairing of pan-fried oysters and a BLT. Here were […]