It’s not always easy for two cooks to coexist peacefully in one kitchen. A neighbor of mine, a well-regarded French chef, lets his partner’s Thai cooking rule at home. In […]
THE ESSENTIALS
One Chicken, Three Dinners for Two
Rice and greens transform broth into a fine Italian soup
I remember my grandmother — all four-feet-eight of her — standing tall before the grocer, as he rang up her order. “No, sir! I will not pay 59 cents a […]
THE ESSENTIALS
Giving the Primal Pumpkin a Place at the Table
Warm spices and bright cranberries baked into an autumn tradition
It’s hard to imagine a more fitting dinner for Halloween night than a vibrant orange pumpkin stuffed with rice, warm spices, and meat. I anticipate this ritual every autumn and […]
THE ESSENTIALS
End of Summer Lobster Stew
Serve, if possible, by a window with a view
Sand dunes and salty air and lobster stew — I love everything Patti Page sang about, though, curiously, “Old Cape Cod” fills me with nostalgia for a past I never […]
THE ESSENTIALS
A Platter of Zucchini Fritti, Just Like Aunt Lil’s
Sultry seaside air inspires a quest to recover a crisp, salty taste memory
It’s that time of year. Unlike some people, I don’t dodge neighbors heading my way with a basketful of zucchini. This beautiful, versatile vegetable can be sautéed, frittered, grilled, or […]
THE ESSENTIALS
The Modest Fish Cake Rewards a Second Look
Crispy outside, creamy inside, and served with a bite of local history
I first spotted fish cakes on an inn’s menu on Martha’s Vineyard. After daring to order them for breakfast, I’ve made them at home ever since — though more often […]
THE ESSENTIALS
Finding Renewal in the Garden
Herbs, violets, and early vegetables for the spring holidays
Clearing dead leaves and debris off the vegetable and herb beds on one of the first truly warm afternoons of this spring, I’m amazed to find that lemon balm and […]
THE ESSENTIALS
Hugo Rizzoli’s Classic Marinara
An artist rediscovers his grandmother’s elemental tomato sauce
It all started with the savory scent of slowly cooking garlic drifting up the street from Ciro and Sal’s restaurant. Working that summer of 1978 as a painter’s assistant in […]
