Bluefish are misunderstood on the mainland. Detractors there moan about them being “too oily” or “fishy.” But Cape Codders wait hungrily for this season. What we know is that, handled […]
recipe
FROM THE LARDER
Lamb Chops and Artichokes on the Grill
Smoke and fire and other gifts that got us through this
There are some advantages to working in a vineyard. First, there’s the wine, though not until 5 p.m. Because I’m working. And, at this vineyard, there’s a food truck at […]
NEW ORLEANS DISPATCH
Making It Back to Mosca’s
In NOLA, a side trip in search of memories of hope and garlic
As soon as we cross the Huey Long Bridge, I begin to scan for the rambling white clapboard building — some call it a shack — that houses Mosca’s. I’m […]
FROM THE LARDER
Eggs for Dinner
Tomatoes, peppers, ginger, and garam masala make a spicy bed for baked eggs
The early morning APB comes by text from our friend Ingrid. A farm at nearby Ryder Beach has a surplus of fresh eggs and the farmer is offering them for […]
SILVER LININGS
Remembering Ramen, a Chef Gets Back in the Kitchen Again
‘This is not over for restaurants; we need to support each other’
PROVINCETOWN — The last year has hit the restaurant world hard. “I’m not sure other people can really grasp what it has meant for those of us in it,” says […]
KITCHEN TABLE
Time Traveling With a Torta Sbrisolona
A crumbly, nearly savory toasted-almond cookie from Lombardy
“We’re bringing the sbrisolona,” our friend Brian told me. “Yes, the very same one. And it doesn’t look half bad, actually.” Spring cleaning is so important. Especially if your microwave […]
KITCHEN TABLE
April Fools
Slumped fruits sweeten a cloud-like whipped cream dessert
I am not sure which is easier, to be a fool or make one. I’ll admit to my share of being one. The other kind of fool is a cloud-like […]
VIGNETTE
Le Deuxième Soufflé
Childhood memories of a quintessential French dish get a second wind
Every Saturday afternoon, my mother used to make the dessert for Sunday — a ritual I enjoyed helping with. I grew up in the south west of France, in Bordeaux. […]
FROM THE LARDER
Bethany Gregory’s Roasted Oyster Banh Mi
An Outer Cape version of a French-Vietnamese sandwich that’s generous in every way
She had me with oyster banh mi. If that’s what chef Bethany Gregory was making for lunch at the Soup Kitchen in Provincetown (SKIP), I wanted to meet her. From […]
FROM THE SNACKBOOK
Green Soup for Spring
A not-exactly vichyssoise that’s just right for spring’s vicissitudes
The first official day of spring arrives this weekend. It took me many years of living in New England to realize that this is nature’s favorite joke. Here it’s picnic […]
KITCHEN AS PASSPORT
Sesame Macha and Salsa Verde From the Mercado de San Juan
In a year without travel, two salsas bring the flavors of Mexico home
I have learned not to take anything for granted. Not even simple things, like seeing a stranger’s smile, having a relaxed drink with a friend at a bar, or sitting […]
FROM THE LARDER
Soy Sauce and Butter Make a Secret Sauce for Mushrooms
Dinner from an earthy, loamy countertop garden named Chenille
I have a pile of dog-eared seed catalogs marked with checks and circles — a paper hope chest filled with my garden aspirations. They sit in a growing pile on […]
FROM THE LARDER
Garlic, Greens, and White Beans Make a Winning Dinner
No need to soak, and other wisdom on confronting your bean stockpile
It is mid-February of the pandemic winter, but even this one won’t last forever. It’s time for us to face a cold, hard fact: most of those dried beans we […]
THE KIDS COOK
Summer Tuna, Packed in Oil, Comes to the Table for a Smorgasbord
Deconstructed and rebranded, a Niçoise salad becomes a favorite
There’s a funny thing about kids and food combinations. At our house, olives are good, and bread is good. But olive bread might as well be poison. Why? I have […]
FROM THE SNACKBOOK
Twice Baked, the Humble Hero of a Winter Picnic
The good life is a potato, warmed in the coals, and carried in a pocket
Since nearly a year ago, I’ve been cultivating a small, dedicated, cautious band of creative weirdos. We are, as they say, a “pod.” Keeping each other safe, (reasonably) calm, fed, […]
