In south Louisiana, where I come from, if you can eat it or dance to it, there’s probably a festival for it. We have festivals celebrating crawfish, gumbo, catfish, soybeans, […]
recipe
FROM THE SNACKBOOK
An Umami-Rich Pasta for the Changing Season
Don’t forget to warm up the bowl
That slight bite in the air — the one that makes you roll your shirtsleeves down, pull on a hat, and recognize the crunch of leaves as you walk — […]
COOK'S KITCHEN
When a Tomato and Mayo Sandwich Takes a Trip to Tuscany
Tomatoes, herbs, Italian cheeses, and fennel baked in a buttery crust
I am seeing red! I don’t mean because of worldly triggers — anti-vaxers, Texas, or extreme climate events. The red I’m seeing right now is the cornucopia of tomatoes on […]
FROM THE LARDER
The Salty, Sweet Taste of a Wild Garden’s Possibilities
Gilded with honey and transformed by heat, feta becomes a luscious spread
I tend to look at things and see not only what they are but what they might become. It drives Christopher a little crazy, since it means that the check […]
FROM THE LARDER
Low Heat and Lots of Smoke Are Summer Magic for Meat
Sorry, Mark Bittman, but the season cannot end without barbecue, just this once
I’ve been trying to move our household in the direction of a plant-based diet, turning out dals and stir-frys and vegetable-stuffed tacos with gusto. I even made a seitan-based chili […]
BLENDER
Cold Soups for Settling Into Real Dinners
Cucumbers or corn become the simplest of summer starters
There was nothing wrong with the Green Monsta I drank for lunch last week. It was delicious. And I’m sure it was good for me, seeing as how it contained […]
FROM THE LARDER
A Citrusy Cool Custard for a Hot Summer Night
It sounds adorable and looks fancy, but lemon posset is a dessert for the lazy
The thing about summer is that I want to cook in a way that leaves me turning pages in the hammock until the very last minute. There will be plenty […]
FROM THE LARDER
Pop’s Savory Zucchini-Feta Pancakes
Family lessons in handling summer abundance with resolve and a squeeze of lemon
I’m resigned to the Outer Cape’s annual round of plagues: mosquitos, gnats, pollen, greenhead flies, black flies, tourists, drought. With climate change at our door, can frogs or a river […]
LOCAL CATCH
A Summer-Only Cape Cod Secret, With Thanks to Dr. Bluefish
The blues go well with bold flavors of tomatoes, olives, and capers
Bluefish are misunderstood on the mainland. Detractors there moan about them being “too oily” or “fishy.” But Cape Codders wait hungrily for this season. What we know is that, handled […]
FROM THE LARDER
Lamb Chops and Artichokes on the Grill
Smoke and fire and other gifts that got us through this
There are some advantages to working in a vineyard. First, there’s the wine, though not until 5 p.m. Because I’m working. And, at this vineyard, there’s a food truck at […]
NEW ORLEANS DISPATCH
Making It Back to Mosca’s
In NOLA, a side trip in search of memories of hope and garlic
As soon as we cross the Huey Long Bridge, I begin to scan for the rambling white clapboard building — some call it a shack — that houses Mosca’s. I’m […]
FROM THE LARDER
Eggs for Dinner
Tomatoes, peppers, ginger, and garam masala make a spicy bed for baked eggs
The early morning APB comes by text from our friend Ingrid. A farm at nearby Ryder Beach has a surplus of fresh eggs and the farmer is offering them for […]
SILVER LININGS
Remembering Ramen, a Chef Gets Back in the Kitchen Again
‘This is not over for restaurants; we need to support each other’
PROVINCETOWN — The last year has hit the restaurant world hard. “I’m not sure other people can really grasp what it has meant for those of us in it,” says […]
KITCHEN TABLE
Time Traveling With a Torta Sbrisolona
A crumbly, nearly savory toasted-almond cookie from Lombardy
“We’re bringing the sbrisolona,” our friend Brian told me. “Yes, the very same one. And it doesn’t look half bad, actually.” Spring cleaning is so important. Especially if your microwave […]
KITCHEN TABLE
April Fools
Slumped fruits sweeten a cloud-like whipped cream dessert
I am not sure which is easier, to be a fool or make one. I’ll admit to my share of being one. The other kind of fool is a cloud-like […]
