In a former life I oversaw a test kitchen for a food magazine. Given the long lead time needed for development, editing, and printing, that meant Christmas in July every […]
Recipe Box
SUGAR AND SPICE
The Bossest Molasses Cookies
Sometimes I wish I lived in my friend Karrie Adamany’s neighborhood. That way I could go over to her place with my sketch pad and colored pencils for drawing night. […]
ROME DISPATCH
Bucatini Cacio e Pepe Is Forever
A plate of pasta to love in the Eternal City
I’ve long suspected that air travel is unnatural, and the physical effects of being hurtled through the air in a metal tube across several time zones get worse as I […]
CRUSTY GOODNESS
P’Town Is Pie Town for a Day
Recipes from the winners of the Provincetown Commons pie contest
PROVINCETOWN — Barb Fortier and her partner, Karen Edlund, bought a chicken pot pie for $725 a couple of weeks ago. The pie wasn’t made with a rare breed of […]
HOME GROWN
An Autumn Pilaf Stars the Eastham Turnip
Wild rice and mushrooms are the perfect partners for a humble root
Even though they’re stars among Outer Cape roots, turnips have a reputation for humility. They get along nicely with other earthy vegetables, including carrots, potatoes, beets, and onions. For the […]
WELL DRESSED
Gingerbread Stuffing for a New Tradition
Sometimes all you need is to change things up a little
I have never quite understood the proliferation of Thanksgiving recipes that fill the pages of food publications every November. Isn’t Thanksgiving all about eating the same things with the same […]
THE BERRIES
At Thanksgiving, Two Things Everyone Agrees On
Cranberries are ‘best in show’ at brunch and dinner
May this week before your Thanksgiving feast be a time of good-natured debate regarding the propriety of the presence of a turkey on the table, whether you’re discussing that dinner […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
Around a Fire, Stories Are Told, Songs Are Sung, and Dinner Is Warmed
Rediscovering the magic of the flames
As a young cook, I was drawn to vintage preindustrial cookbooks hoping to unlock past wisdom. I was often dissatisfied: the recipes were vague, too simple, kind of bland. Where […]
SALT OF THE EARTH
A Warm Salad Stars the Joni Mitchell of Legumes
The chickpea becomes glamorous lavished in olive oil, onions, and herbs
When I turned 21, I started cooking with a zeal and self-importance that almost made up for how unnatural the whole enterprise was for me. I’d meticulously, maniacally dice onions […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
Great Pumpkin Soup, With Dignity
Like Linus, seeking a winter squash without a sign of hypocrisy
Sometimes I think the scariest thing about Halloween is the flood of pumpkin-spice products that appear for the season. The fact that pumpkin-spice deodorant exists hints at how ludicrous the […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
A ‘Little Fat Boy’s’ Chili-Crisp Roast Chicken
Frankie Gaw’s First Generation tells a story of pride and ‘pot holders’
The minute I cracked open Frankie Gaw’s First Generation (Ten Speed Press, 2022), a birthday gift from my son, the stunning photographs made me want to get into the kitchen. […]
FROM THE LARDER
An Oyster Feast
How do you top Wellfleet’s best bivalves? Buttery, bacony, peppery answers from three local farmers
If you listen carefully right now you will hear whole beds of Wellfleet oysters fattening themselves up for a winter that many of them won’t see. That’s because thousands of […]
JAM SESSION
Crushing on the Hidden Fruit of the Autumn Olive
An invasive plant’s inconspicuous berries make a gorgeous, tangy jam
Each year, Katie Emond tries to make jam from something she forages from the local landscape. This time, she had her eye on the autumn olives growing along a dirt […]
THE ESSENTIALS
Autumn Calls for Quilts and Beans
An improvised pot of soup recalls the resourcefulness of Southern quilt makers
Before the first nip of chilly air arrives, I dust off the soup pot — an autumn ritual set off by early sunsets and the first orange-tinged leaves, or maybe […]
LONDON DISPATCH
A Cross-Cultural Curry to Come Home To
At Dishoom in London, a reminder of the gifts of flavors immigrants bring
I know it’s a mistake to leave the Outer Cape in September or October, missing the glorious weather we wait for all summer long. But Christopher had a work trip. […]
