Starting my day with pancakes always put me in a moody, sugar-laden stupor. And I never could get behind a bowl of cold cereal for breakfast. Even when I was […]
Recipe Box
COOK’S KITCHEN
A Dumpling to Keep You Cozy Through a Long Winter’s Night
Practice makes for perfect, pillowy potato gnocchi
January’s sun sets smack down in the center of Blackfish Creek tinting the clouds beyond my back window a cotton-candy pastel. It’s stop-in-your-tracks gorgeous Cape Cod light. And every bit […]
THE ESSENTIALS
One Chicken, Three Dinners for Two
Rice and greens transform broth into a fine Italian soup
I remember my grandmother — all four-feet-eight of her — standing tall before the grocer, as he rang up her order. “No, sir! I will not pay 59 cents a […]
FROM THE LARDER
Congee’s Good for Anything That Ails You
A silky rice porridge is a palette for color, crunch, and heat
As the Outer Cape’s long trek to spring begins, Christopher and I are grateful for the reprieves we’ve had this year from winter’s cold grip. A good number of magically […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
Gougères Are the Little Black Dress of Hors d’Oeuvres
Simple and elegant crisp-tender cheese puffs are the ideal bites with bubbly
Of all the dips, spreads, noshes, and nibbles I have served, there is one that I make for holiday parties year after year: gougères. They always get raves. Gougères are […]
FORAGING
A Restorative Sip for the New Year
White pine needle tea is ‘like drinking the forest in winter’
My friend Ingrid Bratberg knows all the best places to find stinging nettles, wild onions, blackberries, and elderflowers. Ingrid’s a professional baker by day — her shortbread is legendary — […]
KITCHEN CULTURE
There Is Soup and There Is Borscht
A Ukrainian Christmas tradition takes on new significance
Yuliia Svieshnikova has always prepared borscht, one of the 12 traditional Christmas dishes of her native Ukraine, on Jan. 6. That is Christmas Eve on the Julian calendar, which Ukrainians […]
FAMILY RECIPE
Biscotti With Love From a Grandma’s Kitchen in Yonkers
A cookie for the holidays and for always
It’s a terrible thing to say about one’s grandmother — especially one’s Italian-American grandmother — but mine was not a great cook. Her specialty was a swamp-like egg drop soup […]
TASTE MEMORIES
The Joy of Cookbooks
Vintage favorites are the ones cooks most want to give
Cookbooks aren’t always for cooking by. That’s what we heard when we asked a few dedicated local cooks about their favorites. These kitchen volumes are for bringing back taste memories […]
FROM THE LARDER
Baking Brings Out the Beauty of a Knobbly Fruit
A dessert-inspired resolve to bring back the homely but fragrant quince
Before we came to Truro, we lived in the Jamaica Plain neighborhood of Boston, where I grew salad greens and root vegetables in a community garden plot. That’s where I […]
VANCOUVER DISPATCH
A Spicy Curry Soup to Come Home To
A light, aromatic bowl is an antidote for travels and turkey dinners
Now that travel is a thing again, Christopher and I decided to revive our tradition of getting out of town for a bit just before Thanksgiving. We’d been missing the […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
On Thanksgiving, the Sides Are Where Things Get Interesting
Serving up something rich, something foraged, and something green
The Thanksgiving menu is a complex one in which each dish fits into a matrix of nostalgia, identity, excess, creativity, and flavor. At the center is that once-a-year big bird, […]
FROM THE LARDER
Conjuring the Coziness of Choucroute Garni
Homemade sauerkraut is Alsace’s counterpoint to smoky braised pork
The change of seasons has been gentle this year, but with Thanksgiving ahead my mind roams to cold weather meals. And especially to ones that overcome loneliness as much as […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
Election Day Cake
Boozy, nutty, and not too sweet: a recipe made for the midterms
The Puritans were not a fun-loving bunch. Case in point — this declaration posted in Boston in 1659: “Public Notice: the observation of Christmas having been deemed a sacrilege, the […]
THE ESSENTIALS
Giving the Primal Pumpkin a Place at the Table
Warm spices and bright cranberries baked into an autumn tradition
It’s hard to imagine a more fitting dinner for Halloween night than a vibrant orange pumpkin stuffed with rice, warm spices, and meat. I anticipate this ritual every autumn and […]
