“April is the cruelest month,” a friend said to me recently, involuntarily quoting T.S. Eliot. I instantly understood all the ways they both meant it. The trees almost have buds, […]
Food & Drink
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FERMENT
Getting Pickled With Garrett Smythe
A cook fills his pantry with pickles and kimchi
Pickles can be polarizing. There are those who favor the fresh crunch of half sours and others who hew to the notion that its sweet edge makes the bread-and-butter pickle […]
NOLA NOTEBOOK
White Beans Fit for Springtime
A gumbo informed by tradition, though it breaks a few rules
By all rights, I should not be telling you how to make gumbo. After all, I wasn’t born and raised in New Orleans nor in any of the communities between […]
THE ESSENTIALS
Biscuits for a Charmed Brunch
Buttery and slightly crisp, the way Mary McCarthy might have liked them
The legendary bohemian community that flourished on the Outer Cape in the early to mid-20th century is known for its enormous contributions to the arts, literature, culture, politics, and social […]
ROAD TRIP
A Cape Cod Après-Skate Fondue
Lunch for friends to gather around, inspired by a tearoom tradition
One of my favorite things about living on Cape Cod when the crowds are away is that it means a chance to play tourist myself. I love taking mini-trips to […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
A Corned Beef Hash Sam Spade Would Have Approved
A cook takes a chance on a homemade version of a maligned diner tradition
If corned beef hash is on the menu, I order it. Rosy hand-cut hash with sunny eggs and steaming black coffee feels old-school, seductively noir. Like something the laconic Sam […]
KITCHEN CONFIDENTIAL
Tackling the Overstuffed Gadget Drawer
A cook lets go of his butter curlers but holds tight to a few favorite tools
I don’t know why spring cleaning is a thing. Around here, winter is our chance to tackle tasks that can’t be done in the warm months. Come spring, seeds will […]
SUPPER CLUB
In February, a Surprising Feast Springs From Foraging and Farms
Nicole Cormier conjures a cream of mushroom dip with flavors of the forest, not the can
Nicole Cormier often dances, all by herself and spontaneously, in the kitchen of her North Truro cottage. And when she cooks, she likes to harness that same kind of improvisational […]
FERMENT
The Rise of Sourdough Culture on Cape Cod
Local bakers love their starters and have the loaves to prove it
Making sourdough bread requires a commitment of time. If you can get hold of a friend’s mature starter and get your loaf underway now, you’ll be taking it out of […]
SAN DIEGO DISPATCH
As Sweet as a California Surfing Town Can Be
Passion fruit and cacao nibs give caramels a warm tropical note
Our annual visits to San Diego always involve tacos of every description. With Mexico less than 20 miles away, our meals here also feature extraordinary fruits and full-flavored vegetables from […]
MIREPOIX-ESQUE
Michael Ceraldi’s Carrot Sformatino
A cook follows a food memory back to its maker
I’ve seen my fair share of tasting menus but only because I’ve spent the last decade working in fine dining. If you’re lucky enough to have a job in a […]
FAT TUESDAY
Shrimp and Okra Gumbo: A Movable Mardi Gras Feast
A Truro cook carries his Louisiana traditions wherever he goes
I won’t be in New Orleans for Mardi Gras this year. We’re visiting my brother Brit and his family in Montana. But I’m not worried. My brothers and I have […]
NOURISHED
Broccoli Rabe, Right Away
Thinking ahead to put you and your greens in tender conversation
Last week, I made a joke about dropping all of my New Year’s resolutions in favor of a commitment to eat 52 different kinds of soup instead. A friend reached […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
The Meditative Practice of Sharpening a Knife
Simple tools and patience are building blocks of a skill worth learning
At first, the idea of sharpening your own knives seems intimidating, even a little mysterious — the kind of thing that’s “only for pros.” And it’s true that chefs’ relationships […]
FROM THE LARDER
Adobo for Dinner, No Matter the Season You’re In
A question posed by a poet leads to a recipe for comfort in hard times
The first time I met Priscilla Lasmarias Kelso, she had joined us on a walk at the Arnold Arboretum in Jamaica Plain — the Boston neighborhood where Christopher and I […]
