I love going to the grocery store almost as much as my mom hates taking me there. She says I’m a spendthrift. I prefer the term epicurean. To her point: […]
Food & Drink
Cook, mix, pour, and pull up a chair.
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MELBOURNE DISPATCH
An Essential Condiment Comes Home From Down Under
Fragrant chili oil makes noodles and greens memorable
It’s no secret: I’m promiscuous. About condiments, that is. I’ve almost never met a condiment I didn’t like. In my experience, having some good ones on hand means almost anything […]
MOTHER’S DAY
Red Fruits and Roses for Dessert
Cold strawberry and raspberry soup that’s a big step up from Jell-O
In the garden today looking for the first signs of fruit and smelling nothing but garlic chives, I figure the Outer Cape’s first strawberries are still about three weeks out. […]
ROAD TRIP
A Portuguese Port of Call in Fall River
Making a detour for tinned fish, bacalhau, and Azorean wines
Since moving to the Outer Cape a few years ago I’ve enjoyed encountering the influence of Portuguese culture here. There’s the annual Blessing of the Fleet and the generations of […]
KITCHEN VIGNETTE
My Grandmother’s Buttery Mashed Potatoes
A cartoonist gets his start with a fork and a mountain of purée de patate
When I was growing up in the small town of Preignac, in southwest France, the days of the week could be counted in culinary rituals. Wednesday was the day for […]
CINCO DE MAYO
Antojitos and Mojitos
Make mine a tuna and avocado tostada with a side of mezcal
Mexicans have their botanas con bebidas down to an art. Their street-food-inspired snacks and sips range from the elegantly spare slice of jicama tossed with lime juice and sprinkled with […]
BREAD AND CIRCUS
Packing a Ploughman’s Lunch for Town Meeting
Sustenance to banish the hangry from civic life
I’m driving home to Truro from the hardware store in Provincetown when I see the poster-waving crowd on Route 6 across from the fire station. Maybe I’m going a tiny […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
The Sweet Return of the Hummingbird Cake
Never let the truth get in the way of a good dessert
Hummingbird cake, like its namesake bird, has a migration story, though it’s one that’s hard to follow. Many articles about the cake claim it was originally a creation of the […]
PASSOVER
Spring Greens and Bitter Herbs
Reflection and nourishment for the season of renewal
“April is the cruelest month,” a friend said to me recently, involuntarily quoting T.S. Eliot. I instantly understood all the ways they both meant it. The trees almost have buds, […]
FERMENT
Getting Pickled With Garrett Smythe
A cook fills his pantry with pickles and kimchi
Pickles can be polarizing. There are those who favor the fresh crunch of half sours and others who hew to the notion that its sweet edge makes the bread-and-butter pickle […]
NOLA NOTEBOOK
White Beans Fit for Springtime
A gumbo informed by tradition, though it breaks a few rules
By all rights, I should not be telling you how to make gumbo. After all, I wasn’t born and raised in New Orleans nor in any of the communities between […]
THE ESSENTIALS
Biscuits for a Charmed Brunch
Buttery and slightly crisp, the way Mary McCarthy might have liked them
The legendary bohemian community that flourished on the Outer Cape in the early to mid-20th century is known for its enormous contributions to the arts, literature, culture, politics, and social […]
ROAD TRIP
A Cape Cod Après-Skate Fondue
Lunch for friends to gather around, inspired by a tearoom tradition
One of my favorite things about living on Cape Cod when the crowds are away is that it means a chance to play tourist myself. I love taking mini-trips to […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
A Corned Beef Hash Sam Spade Would Have Approved
A cook takes a chance on a homemade version of a maligned diner tradition
If corned beef hash is on the menu, I order it. Rosy hand-cut hash with sunny eggs and steaming black coffee feels old-school, seductively noir. Like something the laconic Sam […]
KITCHEN CONFIDENTIAL
Tackling the Overstuffed Gadget Drawer
A cook lets go of his butter curlers but holds tight to a few favorite tools
I don’t know why spring cleaning is a thing. Around here, winter is our chance to tackle tasks that can’t be done in the warm months. Come spring, seeds will […]
