My friend Kathy, who lives in California, recently sent me a box of Meyer lemons she had picked on her daily walk. I was thrilled — Meyers have a floral […]
Food & Drink
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HOW TO
Directions: The Way to Pie Day
Tips for making flaky, tender crusts
I spent five years teaching in a professional cooking school in New York City and without a doubt everyone had the most fun on pie-making day. Many folks have serious […]
FOOD MEMORIES
When It Was Pie Day All Day
Remembering the irresistible allure of a potentially pagan practice
The thing about being raised a Baptist in south Louisiana was that you ended up missing out on half the fun. Most of the idiosyncratic practices and traditions that gave […]
FROM THE SNACKBOOK
Satisfying Wanderlust With Homemade Naan
India’s tender, chewy, charred bread, in a skillet
When my husband and I moved to Provincetown in 2014, we did it in pursuit of more time. We were tired of the constant grind of New York City, tired […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
A Winter Version of Corn and Clams
Slow-cooked polenta with littlenecks offers summer memories in a winter guise
My winter midweek meals used to be more about nourishment than deliciousness. But one benefit of this unrelenting work-from-home era has been the chance to start dinner in the afternoon. […]
FROM THE LARDER
Homemade Garlic Sausage, Spiked With Cognac and a Pinch of Nutmeg
Memories of a small-town butcher shop inspire a kitchen project for a winter weekend
Light fluffy snow swirls brightly as I head out for a walk on the rail bed where I see lots of coyote tracks. When I get back to the frost-covered […]
FROM THE LARDER
Soup for Breakfast, Abroad and at Home
What to do when you cannot face another bowl of oatmeal
I head downstairs for breakfast, round the corner of the first-floor landing, and find myself eyeball to eyeball with a water buffalo. Clearly, I’m not in Truro anymore. The buffalo […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
The Light and Lemony Foundations of a Good Mezze
Memories of a trip to Lebanon inspire homemade hummus and a winter tabbouleh
I was never a fan of hummus. I had been scarred by memories of too many tubs of the bland, cement-like commercial stuff, consumed on dry carrot nubs after my […]
KITCHEN TABLE
A Proper Bolognese, Simmered Until It’s Done
Making my own sauce, I start to get Mom’s culinary wisdom
Even though she went to culinary school and has a stack of cookbooks as high as our ceiling, my mother does not use recipes. So, for me, moving away from […]
FROM THE SNACKBOOK
The Alchemy of a Steamed Sweet Potato
A fluffy, custardy new companion for the season of comfort food
I don’t know about you, but it’s going to take me a while to remember what true wanderlust feels like. The last two years, painful and disorienting as they have […]
FROM THE LARDER
Arnaud’s French 75 for 2021’s Twilight
Creating a new ritual with a classic cocktail
I’m partial to rituals to mark the parameters of life, to give contour to my days and punctuate some moments as special, worthy of celebration. They remind me to pause […]
KITCHEN TABLE
Mexico’s Earthy, Smoky, Special Sauce
Eduardo Rios simmers the mole his mother used to make
Eduardo Rios isn’t sure what he’ll be roasting for Christmas dinner. It might be a turkey. Or if he can find one, maybe a big fillet of cod. What he […]
COOK'S KITCHEN
The Joy of Cookie Chaos
A two-decade-long tradition starts as child’s play
Christmas movie marathons, finding the pickle ornament hidden in the tree, folding tamales, regifting fruitcakes — the holidays inspire all kinds of traditions. For almost 20 years, our son, Asher, […]
FROM THE LARDER
Homemade Granola Makes a Not-Too-Sweet Gift
Breakfast that’s good enough to eat for dessert
Several years ago, we attended a memorable dinner at the famed New York restaurant Eleven Madison Park. This was before Covid shut down the world, and before the restaurant raised […]
FROM THE LARDER
A Cook’s Search for Economy Leads to a Superior Snack
Homemade crackers with warm spices, olives, and toasted pistachios
When I was in college, I liked to study in the uptown branch of the New Orleans Public Library on St. Charles Avenue. It occupied a sprawling, slightly decrepit mansion […]