WELLFLEET — John D’Aponte grew up traveling back and forth between two pizza meccas: Naples, Italy, and Brooklyn, N.Y. A New Yorker, D’Aponte often visited the southern Italian city where […]
Food & Drink
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FROM THE LARDER
Congee’s Good for Anything That Ails You
A silky rice porridge is a palette for color, crunch, and heat
As the Outer Cape’s long trek to spring begins, Christopher and I are grateful for the reprieves we’ve had this year from winter’s cold grip. A good number of magically […]
KITCHEN CONFIDENTIAL
Crispy Fried Shallots
A sweet, salty pick-me-up for almost any winter soup
There was one good thing about those green bean casseroles. It wasn’t the beans, which tasted metallic, like the inside of the can where they’d been biding their time before […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
Gougères Are the Little Black Dress of Hors d’Oeuvres
Simple and elegant crisp-tender cheese puffs are the ideal bites with bubbly
Of all the dips, spreads, noshes, and nibbles I have served, there is one that I make for holiday parties year after year: gougères. They always get raves. Gougères are […]
FORAGING
A Restorative Sip for the New Year
White pine needle tea is ‘like drinking the forest in winter’
My friend Ingrid Bratberg knows all the best places to find stinging nettles, wild onions, blackberries, and elderflowers. Ingrid’s a professional baker by day — her shortbread is legendary — […]
SALUD
Coquito, Puerto Rico’s ‘Just Don’t Call It Eggnog’
For Navidades, rum, spices, and a little coconut suffonsify
Somewhere along the road, eggnog fell into a ditch. Exalted until the late ’70s, it got tossed out with all those avocado-green appliances. It’s all but disappeared now, save for […]
PROST
A Drink for Getting Cozy, Abroad or at Home
Red wine, spices, and a little more honey than you might think
Europe in summertime is out of reach for most Cape Codders — it’s our busy time, and there’s too much work here to leave the Cape in June. I’ve learned […]
KITCHEN CULTURE
There Is Soup and There Is Borscht
A Ukrainian Christmas tradition takes on new significance
Yuliia Svieshnikova has always prepared borscht, one of the 12 traditional Christmas dishes of her native Ukraine, on Jan. 6. That is Christmas Eve on the Julian calendar, which Ukrainians […]
FAMILY RECIPE
Biscotti With Love From a Grandma’s Kitchen in Yonkers
A cookie for the holidays and for always
It’s a terrible thing to say about one’s grandmother — especially one’s Italian-American grandmother — but mine was not a great cook. Her specialty was a swamp-like egg drop soup […]
TASTE MEMORIES
The Joy of Cookbooks
Vintage favorites are the ones cooks most want to give
Cookbooks aren’t always for cooking by. That’s what we heard when we asked a few dedicated local cooks about their favorites. These kitchen volumes are for bringing back taste memories […]
FROM THE LARDER
Baking Brings Out the Beauty of a Knobbly Fruit
A dessert-inspired resolve to bring back the homely but fragrant quince
Before we came to Truro, we lived in the Jamaica Plain neighborhood of Boston, where I grew salad greens and root vegetables in a community garden plot. That’s where I […]
VANCOUVER DISPATCH
A Spicy Curry Soup to Come Home To
A light, aromatic bowl is an antidote for travels and turkey dinners
Now that travel is a thing again, Christopher and I decided to revive our tradition of getting out of town for a bit just before Thanksgiving. We’d been missing the […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
On Thanksgiving, the Sides Are Where Things Get Interesting
Serving up something rich, something foraged, and something green
The Thanksgiving menu is a complex one in which each dish fits into a matrix of nostalgia, identity, excess, creativity, and flavor. At the center is that once-a-year big bird, […]
FROM THE LARDER
Conjuring the Coziness of Choucroute Garni
Homemade sauerkraut is Alsace’s counterpoint to smoky braised pork
The change of seasons has been gentle this year, but with Thanksgiving ahead my mind roams to cold weather meals. And especially to ones that overcome loneliness as much as […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
Election Day Cake
Boozy, nutty, and not too sweet: a recipe made for the midterms
The Puritans were not a fun-loving bunch. Case in point — this declaration posted in Boston in 1659: “Public Notice: the observation of Christmas having been deemed a sacrilege, the […]
