There was one good thing about those green bean casseroles. It wasn’t the beans, which tasted metallic, like the inside of the can where they’d been biding their time before […]
Kitchen Table
COOK’S KITCHEN
On Thanksgiving, the Sides Are Where Things Get Interesting
Serving up something rich, something foraged, and something green
The Thanksgiving menu is a complex one in which each dish fits into a matrix of nostalgia, identity, excess, creativity, and flavor. At the center is that once-a-year big bird, […]
FROM THE LARDER
Conjuring the Coziness of Choucroute Garni
Homemade sauerkraut is Alsace’s counterpoint to smoky braised pork
The change of seasons has been gentle this year, but with Thanksgiving ahead my mind roams to cold weather meals. And especially to ones that overcome loneliness as much as […]
THE ESSENTIALS
Giving the Primal Pumpkin a Place at the Table
Warm spices and bright cranberries baked into an autumn tradition
It’s hard to imagine a more fitting dinner for Halloween night than a vibrant orange pumpkin stuffed with rice, warm spices, and meat. I anticipate this ritual every autumn and […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
Tucking the Earthy, Spicy, Fruity Flavors of Fall Into One Simple Taco
Wild mushrooms, winter squash, smoked chiles, and dried cranberries mingle in a warm tortilla
I love the freedom and creativity of the taco. So many delicious things are flattered by the earthiness of a corn tortilla, from braised beef or spice-rubbed pork to grilled […]
GRENOBLE DISPATCH
Chicken Forestière Brings Home the Pleasure of a Plat du Jour
Booze, cream, and mushrooms sauce a fall supper
Is there a single person on the Outer Cape who doesn’t pine all summer long for September? Friends and neighbors talk about it all year long — it’s mythic. Why […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
A Soleful Breakfast
Fresh-caught flounder, sunny eggs, ripe tomatoes, and a good cup of coffee start a sailor’s weekend
Cooking with friends who also love to cook puts things right for me. It’s like when musicians jam — we play, become inspired, and riff on classics, and our payoff […]
KITCHEN GARDEN
An Early Summer Arugula Salad
Yogurt, lemon, and olive oil are counterpoints to spicy greens and radishes
Somebody gives you flowers and you put them on the kitchen counter, and every time you see them you smile and feel fond of that person. It’s very nice. But […]
FROM THE LARDER
Pierogi to Make a Babcia Proud
Folding cheese and potato dumplings, we find the world becomes smaller
We cross paths regularly on our respective early morning coffee runs in Wellfleet. Now, without masks, it seems easier to strike up a conversation. She’s holding a copy of the […]
HOW TO
Directions: The Way to Pie Day
Tips for making flaky, tender crusts
I spent five years teaching in a professional cooking school in New York City and without a doubt everyone had the most fun on pie-making day. Many folks have serious […]
KITCHEN TABLE
A Proper Bolognese, Simmered Until It’s Done
Making my own sauce, I start to get Mom’s culinary wisdom
Even though she went to culinary school and has a stack of cookbooks as high as our ceiling, my mother does not use recipes. So, for me, moving away from […]
COOK'S KITCHEN
The Joy of Cookie Chaos
A two-decade-long tradition starts as child’s play
Christmas movie marathons, finding the pickle ornament hidden in the tree, folding tamales, regifting fruitcakes — the holidays inspire all kinds of traditions. For almost 20 years, our son, Asher, […]
THE HALF SHELL
Eating Oysters, With Gratitude
Some variations on oysters the Pilgrims could not have imagined
I won’t blame you if you have your doubts when I tell you that your Thanksgiving dinner might be more authentic if you served fish instead of turkey. There’s not […]
KITCHEN TABLE
Pears Are for Pies
Add rosemary, raisins, and spices — hold the suet
If you are any kind of cook, chances are that in the weeks ahead you are going to be called on to make at least one pie. Showing up with […]
KITCHEN TABLE
Pork Butt, Bistro Style
A gentle braise in red wine makes pork and beans seem fancy
Thoreau got lots right. An end-of-August journal entry he made in Concord in 1853 still resonates: “Live in each season as it passes; breathe the air, drink the drink, taste […]
