If corned beef hash is on the menu, I order it. Rosy hand-cut hash with sunny eggs and steaming black coffee feels old-school, seductively noir. Like something the laconic Sam […]
Recipe Box
FERMENT
The Rise of Sourdough Culture on Cape Cod
Local bakers love their starters and have the loaves to prove it
Making sourdough bread requires a commitment of time. If you can get hold of a friend’s mature starter and get your loaf underway now, you’ll be taking it out of […]
SAN DIEGO DISPATCH
As Sweet as a California Surfing Town Can Be
Passion fruit and cacao nibs give caramels a warm tropical note
Our annual visits to San Diego always involve tacos of every description. With Mexico less than 20 miles away, our meals here also feature extraordinary fruits and full-flavored vegetables from […]
MIREPOIX-ESQUE
Michael Ceraldi’s Carrot Sformatino
A cook follows a food memory back to its maker
I’ve seen my fair share of tasting menus but only because I’ve spent the last decade working in fine dining. If you’re lucky enough to have a job in a […]
FAT TUESDAY
Shrimp and Okra Gumbo: A Movable Mardi Gras Feast
A Truro cook carries his Louisiana traditions wherever he goes
I won’t be in New Orleans for Mardi Gras this year. We’re visiting my brother Brit and his family in Montana. But I’m not worried. My brothers and I have […]
NOURISHED
Broccoli Rabe, Right Away
Thinking ahead to put you and your greens in tender conversation
Last week, I made a joke about dropping all of my New Year’s resolutions in favor of a commitment to eat 52 different kinds of soup instead. A friend reached […]
FROM THE LARDER
Adobo for Dinner, No Matter the Season You’re In
A question posed by a poet leads to a recipe for comfort in hard times
The first time I met Priscilla Lasmarias Kelso, she had joined us on a walk at the Arnold Arboretum in Jamaica Plain — the Boston neighborhood where Christopher and I […]
THE ESSENTIALS
The Bitter and Sweet of a Midwinter Feast
A decadent dinner reconsidered: local pork agrodolce
Most everyone who loves to cook has probably gone over the top at least once and created a feast of embarrassing excess. My long-ago decadent dinner began as an unlikely work […]
KITCHEN CONFIDENTIAL
Button Mushrooms Can Be Magical, Too
We were on our annual pilgrimage to the Met a few years ago and I was giddy with anticipation of getting to watch the chandeliers sail into the ether, but […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
Maybe It’s Time to Set Your Salad on Fire
Three bitter-leaning chicories that subvert the lettuce paradigm
I recalibrate in January (we don’t say “resolutions” in our house). Right after the holidays, I am wildly enthusiastic about vegetables. Winter salads and sheet pans of roasted roots go […]
KITCHEN CONFIDENTIAL
Garlic-Ginger Paste Warms Up Almost Any Winter Dinner
After a brisk walk down to the bay on frosty winter day, I crave foods to warm me up from the inside out. There’s no better way to raise your […]
BREAKFAST OF CHAMPIONS
Broth for a Mid-Winter Morning
A blend of chicken stock, herbs, ginger, and spices to kickstart the New Year
Early winter is a fun season for those of us who like to cook. It’s the time of year when you get to impress friends and express your love through […]
IN BALANCE
The Case Against Resolutions (at Least Until Spring)
A banana chocolate-chip oatmeal to knock your winter morning socks off
Ahhh, a clean slate. It’s that time of year, I know. But I’m trying to keep the rituals of New Year’s resolutions out of my kitchen. Not that I have […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
A Seafood Stew for Christmas Eve
This riff on tradition is bright with tomatoes, thyme, and a hint of orange
My mother loved the holidays. Her big splurge meal was always on Christmas Eve, when she’d proudly serve red and green in the form of lobster with spinach salad on […]
COOKIE PARTY
The Crumbly Thrills of a Tea Cake
If the very thought of baking cutout cookies — the kind that stick to the dough board, rolling pin, and spatula and break before you can even decorate them — […]
