I have very strong opinions about food colors. My friends have already heard me out on this: I will not touch anything that has Red No. 3, Yellow No. 40, […]
Recipe Box
THE ESSENTIALS
A New Year’s Tradition Based on an Old-World Confection
This fragrant orange-almond cake rises gently to the occasion
As traditions often do, this one developed at our house out of necessity. It’s a celebratory cake made with oranges and almonds but without wheat flour, milk, butter, or leavening […]
THE FEAST
Dreaming Up a Feast of the Seven Fishes
Seared scallops and buttery noodles are Christmas Eve comfort and joy
Everyone has something they do up for the holidays. Maybe you decorate your tree to a heavy rotation of Mariah Carey lined up on your playlist or dole out priceless […]
THE WHOLE TABLE
For a Winter Boost, Spice to Taste
Seasonings that save those too-familiar favorites when they start to seem ho-hum
I promise this story leads to three recipes for tasty spice blends to add to your cooking repertoire. But before we go down that path, I need to tell you […]
COOKIE SWAP
In Praise of the Joe Frogger
The cookie for a town’s sailors and those who didn’t fit the Puritan ideal
The Joe Frogger deserves wider recognition, full stop. It’s a historical American cookie made with pantry staples and features a molasses base spiced with cinnamon, cloves, and cardamom. It’s firm […]
FAMILY RECIPES
Abuela’s Arroz con Dulce
A Puerto Rican dessert is well loved by (almost) everybody
First a little history. When the Moors invaded Spain in the Eighth Century, they introduced rice and saffron into the Spanish culinary oeuvre. Delicious, savory paella and sweet arroz con […]
THE DAY AFTER
Leftovers Fit for a Diva
With ties to an opera legend, Turkey Tetrazzini is more than a mid-century memory
We ate a lot of convenience foods when I was a kid growing up in the 1970s. There were dinners of Hamburger Helper and Chun King chop suey, but the […]
THE BASICS
Liquid Gold
Cooked on Thanksgiving Day or made ahead, homemade gravy is like money in the bank
When it comes to the Thanksgiving meal, there is no such thing as too much gravy. It’s a saving grace for any bird that gets too dry, an indulgent complement […]
THE BASICS
Liquid Gold
Cooked on Thanksgiving Day or made ahead, homemade gravy is like money in the bank
When it comes to the Thanksgiving meal, there is no such thing as too much gravy. It’s a saving grace for any bird that gets too dry, an indulgent complement […]
HOLIDAY SIDES
A Dressing From Down South
In this herb-heavy cornbread version, stuffing the bird isn’t required — just add gravy
People tend to be extremely biased about their Thanksgiving stuffings. They may try an unusual side vegetable or add a new pie recipe beyond the usual pumpkin and pecan (for […]
THE WHOLE TABLE
A Cake to Please Every Type of Eater
Sometimes being good to your body means baking a (healthier) cake
A few years back, I figured out that I had a slew of dietary sensitivities. But since I really do love food, I have been on a quest to discover […]
THE ESSENTIALS
The Ottolenghi Challenge
For a home cook, mastering the art of a flavor wizard can be a journey
The pressure was on — an invitation to dinner from a close friend I’ve known since school days. Barbara and I often cook cooperative dinners, but this time I was […]
ANTIFOGMATIC
A Punch From the Past
Uneasy times call for a strong beverage that can be made by the batch
This Halloween, the threat of ghouls, goblins, or ax murderers pales in comparison to the terror of the following week’s presidential election. For me, the key to sustaining, and hopefully […]
MALAGA DISPATCH
A Souvenir From Southern Spain
In a seaside city, a recipe for meatballs is the favorite
It’s because of Málaga’s market that we are in southern Spain right now, eating meatballs, instead of in Truro, watching the northern lights. Even though we only briefly passed through […]
BEAUTIFUL SOUP
Something New for Our Oyster Stew
Break an iron-clad rule and watch how doubters’ hearts change
After what felt like a glorious extra month of summer, someone hit the fast-forward button rather abruptly last week and we have landed, with a thud and a rustle of […]