Chris Merl’s life on the water started over 30 years ago, first diving for oysters, then farming them. Along the way, after learning the ropes from others, he segued into […]
Food & Drink
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FROM THE SNACKBOOK
Cold Carrot Soup for Don’t-Turn-on-the-Oven Days
Fresh ginger, lime juice, and avocado make it something special
For a moment, let’s reflect on what a lucky feeling it is to find yourself in a cookout rut. It means you have been able to get yourself good food, […]
FROM THE LARDER
Welcome Them With Ms. Nev’s Pimento Cheese
The paté of the South will make guests happy to be back
One advantage to being a gardener is that I don’t mind the rain. In fact, I spend most of the growing season in Truro worrying about drought and longing for […]
FROM THE LARDER
A Sweet Celebration of Vanilla Cupcakes
An uncle and his niece bake up a forever family connection
Picture a plateful of little lemon and vanilla cakes, perfectly risen, and frosted with buttercream swirls strewn with sparkling sanding sugar. How can cupcakes not be the dessert of this […]
FROM THE LARDER
Lamb Chops and Artichokes on the Grill
Smoke and fire and other gifts that got us through this
There are some advantages to working in a vineyard. First, there’s the wine, though not until 5 p.m. Because I’m working. And, at this vineyard, there’s a food truck at […]
COCKTAIL HOUR
A Margarita That Stirs Memories
Tequila, orange liqueur, and Mexican limes in the Southwest’s perfect proportions
I’ve been thinking lately about the influence of the Southwest of the U.S. on my life. Having grown up in South Texas and spent tons of time in Southern Arizona, […]
KITCHEN TABLE
A Cook’s Conversion to the Side of Radishes
Three ways to bring out the best in an early crop
Radishes used to bug me. Why were these harsh bitter discs arbitrarily added to my salad? What was the point of carving them into “roses” that would only be left […]
NEW ORLEANS DISPATCH
Making It Back to Mosca’s
In NOLA, a side trip in search of memories of hope and garlic
As soon as we cross the Huey Long Bridge, I begin to scan for the rambling white clapboard building — some call it a shack — that houses Mosca’s. I’m […]
FROM THE LARDER
Eggs for Dinner
Tomatoes, peppers, ginger, and garam masala make a spicy bed for baked eggs
The early morning APB comes by text from our friend Ingrid. A farm at nearby Ryder Beach has a surplus of fresh eggs and the farmer is offering them for […]
FROM THE SNACKBOOK
Butter Things Up, Herbaceously
A stash of herb butter in the freezer is a gift to your future self
The mental and emotional thaw after a long, hard winter is always a relief, though it isn’t without its intricacies. Mainly, it’s easy to get overwhelmed by so much possibility […]
SILVER LININGS
Remembering Ramen, a Chef Gets Back in the Kitchen Again
‘This is not over for restaurants; we need to support each other’
PROVINCETOWN — The last year has hit the restaurant world hard. “I’m not sure other people can really grasp what it has meant for those of us in it,” says […]
KITCHEN TABLE
Time Traveling With a Torta Sbrisolona
A crumbly, nearly savory toasted-almond cookie from Lombardy
“We’re bringing the sbrisolona,” our friend Brian told me. “Yes, the very same one. And it doesn’t look half bad, actually.” Spring cleaning is so important. Especially if your microwave […]
KITCHEN TABLE
April Fools
Slumped fruits sweeten a cloud-like whipped cream dessert
I am not sure which is easier, to be a fool or make one. I’ll admit to my share of being one. The other kind of fool is a cloud-like […]
VIGNETTE
Le Deuxième Soufflé
Childhood memories of a quintessential French dish get a second wind
Every Saturday afternoon, my mother used to make the dessert for Sunday — a ritual I enjoyed helping with. I grew up in the south west of France, in Bordeaux. […]
FROM THE LARDER
Bethany Gregory’s Roasted Oyster Banh Mi
An Outer Cape version of a French-Vietnamese sandwich that’s generous in every way
She had me with oyster banh mi. If that’s what chef Bethany Gregory was making for lunch at the Soup Kitchen in Provincetown (SKIP), I wanted to meet her. From […]
