Dessert as a last after-dinner thing has never made a lot of sense to me. Pie for breakfast was something condoned by my grandmother — and she gardened and cooked […]
Kitchen Table
KITCHEN TABLE
Bacon, Corn, and Onion Flatbread
Let the dough rise while you go for that leisurely evening swim
The late August wind has announced autumn, circling through the pine scrub. With fall beginning to overlap summer, every leisure moment counts. This is the time to ride the Atlantic’s […]
FROM THE LARDER
Cold Sesame Noodles to Go
Pack up a salty, sweet, spicy beach lunch
Christopher is a beach minimalist. He likes as little as possible between himself and the sun, sand, and surf. His towel, some water, and the No. 1 from Jams (turkey, […]
KITCHEN TABLE
Day Boat Scallop Ceviche for Summer
Sweet sea scallops shine with the bright flavors of lime and cilantro
Chris Merl’s life on the water started over 30 years ago, first diving for oysters, then farming them. Along the way, after learning the ropes from others, he segued into […]
KITCHEN TABLE
A Cook’s Conversion to the Side of Radishes
Three ways to bring out the best in an early crop
Radishes used to bug me. Why were these harsh bitter discs arbitrarily added to my salad? What was the point of carving them into “roses” that would only be left […]
KITCHEN TABLE
April Fools
Slumped fruits sweeten a cloud-like whipped cream dessert
I am not sure which is easier, to be a fool or make one. I’ll admit to my share of being one. The other kind of fool is a cloud-like […]
KITCHEN TABLE
Wellfleet Oyster Fried Rice
Stir-fried for good fortune, with greens, chiles, garlic, and ginger
Last year may have been the-year-that-cannot-be-named, but for Robert and me it was not entirely bad. It was the year we got our oyster mojo going. We became rookie recreational […]
KITCHEN TABLE
Mussels for the New Year
Eastham mussels and andouille are the secrets to a smoky, spicy Truro stew
The mussel stew we’ve been enjoying forever is a good one: Portuguese-style with linguiça, peppers, onions, and tomatoes. A Cape Cod staple. But over the years we’ve tinkered with the […]
KITCHEN TABLE
Reliable, Not-Too-Sour New York Deli Rye
A simple overnight starter makes a victory loaf
It is such a strange feeling to snatch victory from the jaws of defeat, take a triumphant inhale, and realize that — big exhale — everything around you is still […]
PIE TOWN
Apple Pies on Thanksgiving
Calie Wotherspoon, Marla Rice, Anne Suggs, and Janet Lesniak (left to right) baked about 75 apple pies in the Wellfleet Preservation Hall kitchen to deliver to those in need over […]
KITCHEN TABLE
Fall’s Last Apples Go Into a Soup
In a Truro back yard, a two-tree orchard provides
When we first moved into our cottage in Truro several years ago, one of my first acts (after setting a great many mousetraps) was to scout out a place for […]
KITCHEN TABLE
Spicy Village Soup
Made with a soothing gingery broth, to get you through the dark days
Is it possible that this week some of us might feel something like relief? I’m writing this before any of us know. What I do know for certain is that […]
KITCHEN TABLE
Gumbo Is for Sweater Weather
Briny local oysters and smoky sausage from Louisiana come together in a Truro kitchen
I think of the suddenly cool days this time of year as “gumbo and sweater” weather. Where I come from, which is rural south-central Louisiana — much in the news […]
KITCHEN TABLE
Savory Squash and Apple Galette
Honeynut makes a better winter pie
Winter squash was legend in my house growing up. One Halloween, my mother wouldn’t let my sisters trick-or-treat until they ate their acorn squash. No squash, no candy. Ultimately, she […]
KITCHEN TABLE
Edna Lewis’s Chicken for Between the Seasons
A dry braise that’s as good in a cold snap as it is on a beach picnic
Something ridiculous always happens when the seasons change. I find myself excited for the foods I associate with the new season, and immediately nostalgic for the foods of the season […]
