In a former life I oversaw a test kitchen for a food magazine. Given the long lead time needed for development, editing, and printing, that meant Christmas in July every […]
THE BERRIES
At Thanksgiving, Two Things Everyone Agrees On
Cranberries are ‘best in show’ at brunch and dinner
May this week before your Thanksgiving feast be a time of good-natured debate regarding the propriety of the presence of a turkey on the table, whether you’re discussing that dinner […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
Around a Fire, Stories Are Told, Songs Are Sung, and Dinner Is Warmed
Rediscovering the magic of the flames
As a young cook, I was drawn to vintage preindustrial cookbooks hoping to unlock past wisdom. I was often dissatisfied: the recipes were vague, too simple, kind of bland. Where […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
Great Pumpkin Soup, With Dignity
Like Linus, seeking a winter squash without a sign of hypocrisy
Sometimes I think the scariest thing about Halloween is the flood of pumpkin-spice products that appear for the season. The fact that pumpkin-spice deodorant exists hints at how ludicrous the […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
A ‘Little Fat Boy’s’ Chili-Crisp Roast Chicken
Frankie Gaw’s First Generation tells a story of pride and ‘pot holders’
The minute I cracked open Frankie Gaw’s First Generation (Ten Speed Press, 2022), a birthday gift from my son, the stunning photographs made me want to get into the kitchen. […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
A Smoky Salsa for September
Fire-roasting coaxes the best from the last tomatoes of the season
Some grumble about the end of summer. Not me. Being able to turn onto Route 6 without taking my life into my hands is one thing I celebrate. September also […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
A BOLT of Oyster Genius in a Cocktail-Size Bite
The joy of Nils Bernstein’s oyster BLTs with oyster mayo
The Joy of Oysters hit me like a BOLT — a Bacon, Oyster, Lettuce and Tomato sandwich — Nils Bernstein’s genius pairing of pan-fried oysters and a BLT. Here were […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
The Stripers Are Here. Light Up the Grill!
To add to the thrill: a gingery peach salsa and fresh corn with miso butter
Our black wall phone rang — yes, this happened that long ago — and I heard my husband’s cousin Edward Redonnet’s excited voice on the other end. Edward is a […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
Roasted Strawberries Top a Cake to Love Forever
A slow-roasting technique turns berries into jammy jewels
I am a serial monogamist when it comes to seasonal fruits and vegetables. At present, I am in a deep relationship with summer strawberries. The soundtrack of this affair features […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
A Risotto That Recalls a ‘Where Have You Been All My Life?’ Encounter
Honoring spring asparagus with a less-is-more version of a classic
Those ho-hum bundles flown in from the other hemisphere most of the year can’t fool me. I like to wait for real asparagus — and it’s finally here. The green […]
MEXICO CITY DISPATCH
The Art of the Breakfast Taco
In both murals and markets, a culture of corn and chiles reveals itself
I knew a winter trip to Mexico City would be a chance to improve my rusty Spanish and eat (a lot). This time I also found myself learning about art. […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
Nun’s Farts Are Dunkers to Sigh For
A donut devotee makes heavenly fritters for Fat Tuesday
Mardi Gras, a.k.a. Fat Tuesday, is next week — the last hurrah before the 40 days of fasting and self-reflection of Lent begin, for those who observe it. Besides prompting […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
A Dumpling to Keep You Cozy Through a Long Winter’s Night
Practice makes for perfect, pillowy potato gnocchi
January’s sun sets smack down in the center of Blackfish Creek tinting the clouds beyond my back window a cotton-candy pastel. It’s stop-in-your-tracks gorgeous Cape Cod light. And every bit […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
Gougères Are the Little Black Dress of Hors d’Oeuvres
Simple and elegant crisp-tender cheese puffs are the ideal bites with bubbly
Of all the dips, spreads, noshes, and nibbles I have served, there is one that I make for holiday parties year after year: gougères. They always get raves. Gougères are […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
On Thanksgiving, the Sides Are Where Things Get Interesting
Serving up something rich, something foraged, and something green
The Thanksgiving menu is a complex one in which each dish fits into a matrix of nostalgia, identity, excess, creativity, and flavor. At the center is that once-a-year big bird, […]
