My friend Kathy, who lives in California, recently sent me a box of Meyer lemons she had picked on her daily walk. I was thrilled — Meyers have a floral […]
HOW TO
Directions: The Way to Pie Day
Tips for making flaky, tender crusts
I spent five years teaching in a professional cooking school in New York City and without a doubt everyone had the most fun on pie-making day. Many folks have serious […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
A Winter Version of Corn and Clams
Slow-cooked polenta with littlenecks offers summer memories in a winter guise
My winter midweek meals used to be more about nourishment than deliciousness. But one benefit of this unrelenting work-from-home era has been the chance to start dinner in the afternoon. […]
COOK’S KITCHEN
The Light and Lemony Foundations of a Good Mezze
Memories of a trip to Lebanon inspire homemade hummus and a winter tabbouleh
I was never a fan of hummus. I had been scarred by memories of too many tubs of the bland, cement-like commercial stuff, consumed on dry carrot nubs after my […]
COOK'S KITCHEN
The Joy of Cookie Chaos
A two-decade-long tradition starts as child’s play
Christmas movie marathons, finding the pickle ornament hidden in the tree, folding tamales, regifting fruitcakes — the holidays inspire all kinds of traditions. For almost 20 years, our son, Asher, […]
GRACE
A Cook Learns One More Way to Do Thanksgiving
Finding joy in a gathering of close strangers
When I arrived at my mother’s with my cooler full of turkey stock, homemade cranberry relish, and cubed bread for stuffing, the food was not my worry. For a while […]
MAKING MEMORIES
A Sweet Bread for Remembrance and Reunion
Pan de muertos, with a large glass of bourbon
One year after my mother died, she was with me again, vividly. I was walking through a maze of graves lit by a sea of beeswax candles in a cemetery […]
KITCHEN TABLE
Pork Butt, Bistro Style
A gentle braise in red wine makes pork and beans seem fancy
Thoreau got lots right. An end-of-August journal entry he made in Concord in 1853 still resonates: “Live in each season as it passes; breathe the air, drink the drink, taste […]
COOK'S KITCHEN
When a Tomato and Mayo Sandwich Takes a Trip to Tuscany
Tomatoes, herbs, Italian cheeses, and fennel baked in a buttery crust
I am seeing red! I don’t mean because of worldly triggers — anti-vaxers, Texas, or extreme climate events. The red I’m seeing right now is the cornucopia of tomatoes on […]
KITCHEN TABLE
Bacon, Corn, and Onion Flatbread
Let the dough rise while you go for that leisurely evening swim
The late August wind has announced autumn, circling through the pine scrub. With fall beginning to overlap summer, every leisure moment counts. This is the time to ride the Atlantic’s […]
LOCAL CATCH
A Summer-Only Cape Cod Secret, With Thanks to Dr. Bluefish
The blues go well with bold flavors of tomatoes, olives, and capers
Bluefish are misunderstood on the mainland. Detractors there moan about them being “too oily” or “fishy.” But Cape Codders wait hungrily for this season. What we know is that, handled […]
KITCHEN TABLE
Day Boat Scallop Ceviche for Summer
Sweet sea scallops shine with the bright flavors of lime and cilantro
Chris Merl’s life on the water started over 30 years ago, first diving for oysters, then farming them. Along the way, after learning the ropes from others, he segued into […]
KITCHEN TABLE
A Cook’s Conversion to the Side of Radishes
Three ways to bring out the best in an early crop
Radishes used to bug me. Why were these harsh bitter discs arbitrarily added to my salad? What was the point of carving them into “roses” that would only be left […]
KITCHEN TABLE
April Fools
Slumped fruits sweeten a cloud-like whipped cream dessert
I am not sure which is easier, to be a fool or make one. I’ll admit to my share of being one. The other kind of fool is a cloud-like […]
KITCHEN AS PASSPORT
Sesame Macha and Salsa Verde From the Mercado de San Juan
In a year without travel, two salsas bring the flavors of Mexico home
I have learned not to take anything for granted. Not even simple things, like seeing a stranger’s smile, having a relaxed drink with a friend at a bar, or sitting […]
