Bluefish are misunderstood on the mainland. Detractors there moan about them being “too oily” or “fishy.” But Cape Codders wait hungrily for this season. What we know is that, handled […]
KITCHEN TABLE
Day Boat Scallop Ceviche for Summer
Sweet sea scallops shine with the bright flavors of lime and cilantro
Chris Merl’s life on the water started over 30 years ago, first diving for oysters, then farming them. Along the way, after learning the ropes from others, he segued into […]
KITCHEN TABLE
A Cook’s Conversion to the Side of Radishes
Three ways to bring out the best in an early crop
Radishes used to bug me. Why were these harsh bitter discs arbitrarily added to my salad? What was the point of carving them into “roses” that would only be left […]
KITCHEN TABLE
April Fools
Slumped fruits sweeten a cloud-like whipped cream dessert
I am not sure which is easier, to be a fool or make one. I’ll admit to my share of being one. The other kind of fool is a cloud-like […]
KITCHEN AS PASSPORT
Sesame Macha and Salsa Verde From the Mercado de San Juan
In a year without travel, two salsas bring the flavors of Mexico home
I have learned not to take anything for granted. Not even simple things, like seeing a stranger’s smile, having a relaxed drink with a friend at a bar, or sitting […]
KITCHEN TABLE
Wellfleet Oyster Fried Rice
Stir-fried for good fortune, with greens, chiles, garlic, and ginger
Last year may have been the-year-that-cannot-be-named, but for Robert and me it was not entirely bad. It was the year we got our oyster mojo going. We became rookie recreational […]
THE BREAKFAST CLUB
Overnight Cornmeal Waffles
It all begins with a buttery sizzle
Of all the things I inherited from my mother, including her special silver and the family china, the thing I cherish most is her waffle iron. It has no special […]
THANKSGIVING ON THE SIDE
The ‘I Am Not Bitter’ Salad
Blood oranges counter the bitterness of winter greens
Thanksgiving’s indulgent dishes — stuffing, mashed potatoes, candied yams, and cranberry — might feel like well-earned rewards after this crazy year. But all the rich and sweet sides weighing down […]
KITCHEN TABLE
Savory Squash and Apple Galette
Honeynut makes a better winter pie
Winter squash was legend in my house growing up. One Halloween, my mother wouldn’t let my sisters trick-or-treat until they ate their acorn squash. No squash, no candy. Ultimately, she […]
