PROVINCETOWN — Anticipating a higher-than-normal off-season population in residence coupled with the need to restrict indoor occupancy, local restaurants are looking for creative solutions to staying open this winter. Many have already begun transitioning towards new schedules and layouts as the leaves turn.
Restaurants
THE COVID EFFECT
Rumors Swirl Over Closing of Restaurants
What were the test results? Answers are not required
Rumors started to circulate last week that a rash of Wellfleet restaurants had closed due to positive Covid-19 tests among staff.
According to public notices from restaurateurs, Mac’s Shack closed for 24 hours for a deep cleaning on July 30 after a staff member tested positive; the Fox & Crow shut down voluntarily for deep cleaning on July 30 and 31, though no staff tested positive; and Van Rensselaer’s closed for deep cleaning on July 31 and Aug. 1, without stating why. Mac’s and the Fox & Crow declined to comment for this article, and V.R.’s could not be reached before deadline.
(A July 27 article by Derek Thompson in The Atlantic argued that “deep cleaning” to prevent Covid transmission is a waste of time. Calling the practice “hygiene theater,” he cited research evidence that surface transmission of the virus is exceedingly rare, and that news reports of studies showing the virus remaining alive on surfaces for days were wildly exaggerated.)
The Wellfleet closings followed others in Provincetown. According to public statements by George’s Pizza and Provincetown Brewing Co., each had a staff member test positive for the coronavirus.
To verify such statements and halt false rumors, is there any official way to find out which restaurants have had employees with the virus?
The answer is no. In Provincetown, Wellfleet, and Eastham, local health officials are not naming restaurants with Covid cases. There is no state mandate for reporting. Emily Beebe, Truro’s health director, said on Tuesday that she was still pondering the question.
Elsewhere in the state, Quincy Mayor Tom Koch posts highly specific updates. On Aug. 3, he wrote: “An employee of Manet Lunch at 1099 Sea St. Quincy has tested positive for Covid-19. If you were a patron on 7/11/20 5PM-1AM, 7/12/20 12-5PM, 7/18/20 5PM-1AM or 7/19/20 12-5PM, please call Quincy Health Department at 617-376-1286 or 617-376-1272 so we may advise you regarding further actions.”
Morgan Clark, Provincetown’s director of health and environment, has no intention of naming restaurants because she does not want to “contribute to shaming,” she said. “This community should be more aware than most, given how we lived together in the 1980s,” she added, referring to the AIDS epidemic.
According to Mass. Dept. of Public Health epidemiologist Hillary Johnson, when and where a person worked may not be relevant. That is something contact tracers attempt to deduce.
“There is not a one-to-one correlation with work and infections,” Johnson told the Provincetown Select Board on Monday. That is, roommates, family, or a certain dinner party guest may need to be informed of positive test results, not a business where masks were worn.
Requiring Disclosure
Still, some are pushing for mandatory restaurant disclosures of positive tests among staff.
“Shining lights on the actual facts is the way to dispel the rumor mill,” said Louise Venden of the Provincetown Select Board. “I want to thank those who did disclose.”
Erik Borg, co-owner of the Provincetown Brewing Co., said it posted results on social media because “some story will get out there anyway, so why not get the real story?”
Provincetown Select Board member Lise King is advocating that the town list both the numbers of residents and workers employed in Provincetown who test positive. Particular businesses would not be named, said King, but it would give the public notice.
In Wellfleet, Mike DeVasto, chair of the select board, is pushing for full disclosure. “I feel strongly that restaurants should report if they have a case,” he said.
Beebe, Truro’s health agent, said naming the restaurant could motivate owners to focus on mask and hygiene requirements. But, she added, she doesn’t want to discourage businesses from communicating freely with her department.
In Wellfleet, Health Director Hillary Greenberg-Lemos said she depends on businesses to call her about positive tests, since there has been at least one significant lag in results going to the state.
Which Test Is Valid?
But testing itself presents a number of thorny questions. For one, which test is valid? The molecular test that’s covered by insurance at Outer Cape Health Services is the most reliable, but wait times for results have been a week or longer. (Quest Diagnostics claimed on Aug. 3 on its website that the wait time is now five days on average.)
Meanwhile, should a restaurant close, or should only a few employees stay home until results come in?
On his business website, Mac’s Shack owner Mac Hay stated that he learned on July 30 that an employee tested positive. “Following dept. of public health and local board of health directions and protocol, we closed for a deep cleaning and had staff tested,” the statement continued. “All tests came back negative. We believe the negative test results are a testament to following proper guidelines and mitigating risk whenever and wherever possible.” The tests were done at CareWell Urgent Care, with results back that same day for about $160 each.
Health agents, including Clark and Eastham’s Jane Crowley, said they don’t recommend the rapid tests, for which negative results are only about 70 percent accurate. Yet many businesses use the rapid tests anyway. “A lot of times, by the time they get to me, business owners have already gone to CareWell, spending almost $200 a test to do something I wouldn’t even recommend,” Clark said.
On the other hand, the week or longer lag in receiving molecular test results presents a huge problem for contact tracers and businesses. And there’s no easy solution, since Quest Diagnostics, which conducts the virus tests here, is backed up, due to high demand nationally and a lack of supplies, Clark said. Dr. Andrew Jorgensen, medical director of Outer Cape Health Services, said a shortage of plastic has made it difficult to get test pipettes.
Quest’s website says demand has “plateaued” and wait times on test results should decrease.
On July 31, the Provincetown Board of Health sent a letter to the Mass. Dept. of Public Health demanding 48-hour test results. Clark brings it up during every call to the DPH.
“We’re not going to stop talking about it until it is improved,” she said.
PHASED AND CONFUSED
Local Performers Are in the Dark on Reopening Rules
Towns diverge on indoor and outdoor guidelines
Currently in Massachusetts, you can dine indoors at a restaurant, you can attend church and even sing there, but you’re still not officially permitted to attend an outdoor performance of any kind.
Over the past month, Outer Cape performers, musicians, and restaurant owners have been confused about the rules for outdoor entertainment. Restaurants opened for outdoor seating on June 8 and indoor seating on June 22.
The Pearl in Wellfleet canceled its outdoor happy-hour series after a false start with a concert by Jordan Renzi on June 13. (Management at Pearl could not be reached for comment.) Stewart’s Seafood Restaurant & Tavern in Eastham canceled scheduled outdoor gigs by the Grab Brothers and Steve Morgan and the Kingfish on June 25 and 27, respectively. According to its website, Stewart’s was advised by the Eastham Board of Health that live entertainment was not permitted. Yet Chapin’s Fish & Chips and Beach Bar in Dennis Port was still doing live music seven days a week when this article went to press.
One reason for the confusion is that Gov. Charlie Baker’s reopening guidelines are vague regarding the arts. Phase two guidelines for restaurants make no mention of entertainment. Arts and entertainment are under phase three; but the rules pertain to indoor venues like concert halls or theaters, not the performers themselves.
Connecticut’s reopening guidelines, by contrast, allow outdoor performances at restaurants, specifying that performers maintain 12 feet of social distance.
Massachusetts guidelines leave the specifics to be determined by local boards of health. As of June 27, Eastham’s coronavirus information page still had a diagram suggesting that outdoor performances were allowed in phase two.
Steve Katsurinis, chair of the Provincetown Board of Health, told the Independent that live performances, whether indoor or outdoor, are not allowed by the state until phase three, which could begin as soon as July 6. But a local order prohibits indoor performances altogether in Provincetown, on top of the state advisory. This does not appear to be the case in the other three Outer Cape towns.
Katsurinis said outdoor performances pose fewer risks than indoor ones, because they allow greater air circulation. “Situations where someone is talking or singing to the audience and the audience is laughing in response are particularly dangerous,” he said, citing a Centers for Disease Control study on a choir in Washington. “However, outdoor entertainment has its own challenges with regard to licensing and noise.”
Indeed, there may be differences in infection risk between vocal and purely instrumental performances.
Larry Grab, of the Grab Brothers, spoke with the Independent before his performance at Stewart’s in Eastham was canceled.
“It’s like a symbiotic relationship between musicians and restaurants,” he said, comparing their mutual survival to the stingray and hogfish. Live music attracts restaurant-goers; freelance musicians get a venue. Grab has been brainstorming safer ways to perform, including the possible wearing of a wireless microphone under a plastic face shield.
Jonathan Hawkins, who produces the virtual programming source Live From Provincetown, is working with the Provincetown Commons, the Arts Foundation of Cape Cod, and the Palette Fund to create the Provincetown Performing Arts Fund, to benefit performers who have lost their livelihoods. To raise money, he is planning several private outdoor concerts in people’s back yards with a handful of guests — allowed under state guidelines.
“I have no idea what is going on now, or what will be allowed 10 days or a month from now,” said Jon Richardson, who is working with Hawkins on the fund. “The only comfort I have in that terrible feeling of uncertainty is that nobody else knows, either.” While he feels the Provincetown Board of Health has done a good job, the state has left everyone guessing.
Ken Horgan, general manager of Pilgrim House in Provincetown, said he wishes performers and entertainment venues were getting the same level of guidance as restaurants and retail stores. He suggests that one reason for the lack of attention could be that performers are not unionized and don’t have an organized voice.
“The town seems to be a little more unsure about what is ‘entertainment,’ ” Horgan said. “For example, is a drag queen lip-syncing ‘live entertainment’? Is someone playing the piano and not singing ‘live entertainment’?” Performances, with precautions taken, are not fundamentally more dangerous than eating out: “One of the advantages of entertainment is that the audience member is usually masked, while restaurant-goers are unmasked,” said Horgan.
“Entertainment is such an integral part of the fabric of Provincetown culture,” said drag queen Mackenzie Miller. “While you do need to sing your heart out, you can do it with masks,” she said, also describing an idea to perform in a plexiglass box at Pilgrim House. “It may be smaller crowds, but our voices are just as loud.”
CURRENTS
This Week in Truro
Meetings Ahead
Meetings are held remotely. To watch live, go to truro-ma.gov.
Friday, June 19
- Board of Library Trustees, 11:30 a.m.
Monday, June 22
- Zoning Board of Appeals, 5:30 p.m.
Tuesday, June 23
- Select Board, 5 p.m.
Thursday, June 25
- Zoning Board of Appeals Cloverleaf 40B Hearing, 5:30 p.m.
Conversation Starters
Covid-19 Update
As of June 15, there were zero active cases in Truro and 10 resolved cases.
Outdoor Seating at Restaurants
Truro Town Planner Jeff Ribeiro is developing a set of requirements under which restaurants can apply for outdoor seating and alcohol service. Along with phase two of Gov. Charlie Baker’s reopening plan, Baker signed an executive order that allows towns to amend liquor licenses and approve restaurants for outdoor service. Before, each applicant would require an on-site inspection from the Alcoholic Beverage Control Commission. Ribeiro does not know when applications will be open, but he said he does have one interested party: the Avenue D Wine Bar, at 14C Truro Center Road.
Transfer Station to Open
The Truro Transfer Station will open seven days a week starting July 1. The Dept. of Public Works has developed a system to properly sanitize the facility, according to Town Manager Rae Ann Palmer. —Devin Sean Martin
PHASING IN
Provincetown Adopts New Policies, but No New Mask Law
Joint meeting of town boards approves reopening guidelines
PROVINCETOWN — Outdoor dining for restaurants, new picnic areas on town property, an experimental car ban on Commercial Street, and extra oversight of the excursion fleet were all approved at a two-part meeting of the select board and board of health on Thursday, May 28, and Monday, June 1. Both boards affirmed many of the town recovery coalition’s recommendations, establishing a joint order that will govern Provincetown’s reopening.
The joint order included the same mask rules on Commercial Street that the select board passed a month ago. This followed a week-long tug-of-war that featured impassioned public comments, hundreds of emails from citizens, and an apology from the town’s legal counsel.
The non-mask parts of the agenda went relatively smoothly. The joint order lays out an approval process for restaurants to move their seating outside. It also authorizes the placement of picnic tables, handwashing stations, and porta-potties at various town-owned properties, since many restaurants have shifted to selling takeout food, and there are few places in town to sit and eat.
The meeting agenda indicated that the new town park at the Hall property, Ryder Street beach, Johnson Street parking lot, and Court Street landing were all being considered as picnic locations. Select board member Louise Venden asked that the West End parking lot or some other West End location be added to the list.
The joint order included closing Commercial Street to vehicles, but only for one weekend as an experiment: Thursday through Sunday, 6 to 10 p.m., between Standish and Court streets. Government vehicles and some delivery vehicles will still be allowed, and bicyclists must walk their bikes. Select board member Lise King expressed concern about the impact on nearby residents, and the board asked that those residents report their experiences or difficulties at its Monday, June 8, meeting.
The boards also voted for an extra layer of supervision for tourist excursion vessels at MacMillan Pier — specifically including the whale-watch fleet and sightseeing cruises, but not smaller deep-sea fishing charters. The board of health, in conjunction with the Pier Corp. and harbormaster, will have to approve docking privileges.
“At some point we expect the governor to issue guidance [on whale-watching],” said Steve Katsurinis, chair of the board of health. “Just like with inns and restaurants, that guidance will be their main guidance. I do want to see their plan, though. Even if you reduce the number of people on board, when the actual whale breaches, everyone rushes to one side.
“Separately, if there were a big increase in infections in town, shutting down the whale watch temporarily might be one of the things we need to do,” Katsurinis continued. “It’s the single largest draw of people into town besides the National Seashore. We can’t say we have a plan to control our population in an extreme situation and then not have a plan to control the single largest driver of people coming to town.
“Also, we really don’t want to be shutting things down,” he added. “Bring us a plan, and we will look for ways to approve it.”
A Tug-of-War Over Masks
The select board met three times in seven days — on May 26, May 28, and June 1 — and at all three meetings, the most tense exchanges were about masks. Like a grueling tug-of-war — or, as Lise King put it, a “pushmi-pullyu” — all that effort seems to have canceled itself out, resulting in no change in the current rules.
At the May 26 meeting, several speakers expressed concern that the mandatory mask zone would be abandoned. Some asked for it to stay in place, while others asked for it to be extended to Bradford Street, Shank Painter Road, or the entire town. Select board member Bobby Anthony tried to offer a motion to extend the zone to include the entire length of Commercial Street, but after some discussion, the decision was moved to May 28.
By May 28, town counsel John Giorgio had written up a mandatory mask policy that would apply even on private property. In Giorgio’s scheme, as soon as people stepped outside their homes — including their back yards or inside any other building in town — a mask would be required.
Giorgio apologized at the May 28 meeting for creating confusion. Reached by email for comment, town manager Robin Craver said, “I believe he was saying he assumed and wrote the most constrictive order without getting direction on preferred language. Many saw the draft language and assumed the select board was in favor of a town-wide mandatory mask requirement.”
By June 1, more than 400 emails had been sent to the select board. “There was a great deal of consternation and stress that was produced by the proposal that this be extended town-wide, 24 hours a day,” said Venden. “There have been 400 letters tallied so far, and 23 of those were in favor of 24/7 town-wide. The remainder were mainly interested in going back to what we had in place earlier.”
Anthony withdrew his motion at the start of the June 1 meeting. “I just want to be clear that my motion on [May 28] did not include the whole of Provincetown,” Anthony said. “It included the whole of Commercial Street.”
“There’s been a lot of chatter on social media over this 24/7 everywhere thing, and about where it came from,” said King. “We really appreciate counsel Giorgio bringing this forward: he wrote it without checking with anyone. It’s important for all the residents and business owners in Provincetown to know that. None of us were pushing for this everywhere, on the salt flats, in your backyard thing.”
At the end of the third meeting, the mask order had not been canceled or expanded. It passed into the joint order completely unchanged.
THE HAIL MARY
For Some, Outdoor Alcohol May Save Season
Wellfleet chiefs support restaurant plan
WELLFLEET — The Beachcomber, the Pearl, and Mac’s Shack will ask the select board on June 9 to be allowed to serve alcohol outdoors. Each restaurant hopes to set up tables in its parking lot.
In a normal year, the state’s Alcoholic Beverages Control Commission (ABCC) would also need to approve the outdoor service, a process that would take about eight weeks to complete. This year, it would have likely taken even longer, due to the enormous statewide demand for expanded outdoor seating. But on Monday, Gov. Charlie Baker signed an executive order granting local licensing boards the authority to approve outdoor alcohol sales.
This means the select board could grant the approvals on June 9.
Alcohol sales are crucial to the very survival of restaurants, which are already looking at fewer customers and reduced seating this year, said state Sen. Julian Cyr, whose parents owned the Truro restaurant Adrian’s.
“This is great news,” Cyr said. “What our business owners need right now is predictability.”
The Pearl, near the Wellfleet Marina, has a tent in its parking lot with a bar and tables, which would allow it to serve guests in the open air.
“People should be able to have wine with their lobster roll if they want to,” manager Allison Hester said.
The Beachcomber, at Cahoon Hollow Beach, is moving 12 indoor tables to the southwestern corner of its parking lot and adding a bar with an umbrella.
“With social distancing, everybody is seeing how important this is,” said Beachcomber owner Todd LeBart. “Serving alcohol is a big part of our business.”
Mac Hay, owner of Mac’s Shack on Commercial Street, sees serving liquor outside as a last resort to save the business.
“We are trying to make the most out of the worst situation, and this is an opportunity to just try to get open,” said Hay. “It’s a Hail Mary — we just throw it up there and, hopefully, we can catch it and keep moving forward.”
Without the license, Mac’s Shack will not be able to open at all, Hay said, as it would cost him more to staff the restaurant than he would make with reduced capacity.
A shuttered restaurant affects not just owners, staff, and customers but also local farmers and fishermen.
“The alternative to not opening?” There isn’t a good one, Hay said. “It’s devastating to everybody.”
Pending action in the state legislature became unnecessary when Gov. Baker issued his executive order allowing local licensing authorities — in Wellfleet’s case, the select board — to approve outdoor alcohol service without ABCC approval, until the order is rescinded or by Nov. 1.
There is local support for the idea. Wellfleet Fire Chief Richard Pauley has recommended serving food and alcohol outdoors during the 2020 season, pending review of the seating plan by local health and fire inspectors.
“As we all know, the summer business season on Cape Cod is very short, precarious, and unpredictable,” Pauley wrote to the select board last week. “I believe the approval of this measure would help to assist the restaurant/establishment owners in maintaining a viable business plan during this difficult economic time and provide for better public health and safety conditions in these establishments. I have discussed this with the health agent, building inspector, and police chief, and we are unanimous in this opinion.”
RECOVERY
Coalition to Advise on Reopening Policies
Its meetings will not be open to the public
PROVINCETOWN — The Provincetown Recovery Coalition created by Town Manager Robin Craver had its first meeting on April 22. Its goal is to move from creative thinking on distancing-while-open to public policy based on a hard question: what do the most restrictive versions of a reopened economy look like?
“Temperature testing,” said board of health chair Steve Katsurinis, a member of the coalition. “We are going keep that option on the table.” Limiting the occupancy of hotels and short-term rentals is also being discussed, he said.
The coalition includes key town staff, board members, business leaders, and other volunteers, and is meant to workshop new policies from multiple angles and advise the town manager on a phased reopening of town. The coalition has no authority, although many of its members are department heads or vote on other town boards. Its function is only to advise Craver, and therefore it falls under an exception to the state’s Open Meeting Law. Its meetings are not public and will not be recorded.
“We’re trying to come up with a model that would suggest the number of people in town that we could manage,” said Katsurinis. “It’s based on capacity … how many people, how much health care capacity, how likely is there to be spread.”
If health indicators were going in the wrong direction, the town could try to lower the number of day trippers or overnight guests. If health indicators stayed calm, restrictions might be progressively eased.
Temporary changes to licensing or other rules might be necessary. Letting restaurants spread their tables outside, or sell alcohol to pedestrians, would require hearings and votes of licensing and possibly other boards. But at this stage, envisioning a more socially distant form of tourism is the goal.
The select board voted on Monday to schedule extra meetings for themselves to learn about and discuss the coalition’s policy work. “We want to know and be brought up to date, and so do lots of other people,” said member Louise Venden. “Having that meeting — at least it’s an open meeting — will give people the comfort of knowing something on a weekly basis.”
In addition to watching the select board’s Monday discussions, members of the public can email their suggestions, questions, or concerns to [email protected].
ESSENTIAL SERVICES
What’s Open: Restaurants, Groceries, Hardware Stores
A town-by-town listing, with hours and telephone numbers
Editor’s note: This list will be updated online regularly. Send additions and corrections to [email protected]. Updated as of Thursday, April 2 at noon.
Provincetown
Community Kitchen
Soup Kitchen in Provincetown at the United Methodist Church, 20 Shank Painter Road: Providing free lunches Monday through Friday, 12:30 p.m. until supplies are gone; 508-487-8331.
Restaurants
Canteen: Open for takeout and delivery seven days, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.; 508-487-3800.
Ciro & Sal’s: Open for takeout and delivery Thursday through Sunday, 5:30 to 9 p.m.; 508-487-6444.
Fanizzi’s: Open for takeout only seven days, 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.; 508-487-1964.
Kohi Coffee Company: Open seven days, 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. for takeout only; 774-538-6467.
Liz’s Cafe: Open for takeout and delivery Wednesday through Saturday, 4 to 8 p.m.; 508-413-9131.
Mac’s Fish House: Open for takeout, delivery, and curbside pickup seven days, noon to 8 p.m.; 508-487-6227.
Tin Pan Alley: Open for takeout and delivery seven days, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 to 8 p.m.; 508-287-1648.
Grocery Stores
East End Market: Open seven days, 7:30 a.m. to 6 p.m.; 508-487-2339.
Mac’s Seafood Market : Open for takeout, delivery, and curbside pickup seven days, noon to 8 p.m.; 508-487-6227.
Snack and Supply: Open seven days, 7:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.; 508-487-0080.
Stop & Shop Provincetown: Open seven days, 7:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.; 508-487-4903.
Hardware Stores
Ace Conwell Home Center: Open for delivery, in-store and curbside pickup only, Monday through Friday, 7:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Saturday, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Sunday, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.; 508-487-0150.
Lands End Marine Supply: Open Monday through Saturday, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.; delivery available; 508-487-0784.
Truro
Community Kitchen
Truro Community Kitchen: Located at the Box Lunch, serving free hot meals for pickup on Sunday, April 5 from noon to 2 p.m.; delivery available; 508-487-4545.
Restaurants
Box Lunch Truro: Open seven days, 7 a.m. to 4 p.m.; takeout, curbside pickup, and delivery available; 508-487-4545.
Montano’s: Open for takeout only seven days, 4 to 8 p.m.; 508-487-2026.
Savory & Sweet Escape: Open for takeout and delivery Tuesday through Saturday, 7 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Monday, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m.; 508-487-2225.
Grocery Stores
Day’s Market and Deli: Open seven days, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.; takeout and curbside pickup available; 508-487-2855.
Wellfleet
Restaurants
Blue Willow Fine Foods and Bakery: Open for delivery and curbside pickup seven days a week from 7:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.; 508-349-0900.
Bob’s Sub and Cone: Open for takeout and delivery, Thursday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.; 508-349-6181.
C-Shore: Open for curbside pickup only, Sunday through Thursday, 4 to 8:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 4 to 9 p.m.; 508-349-7500.
Fox and Crow Cafe: Offering free meals to anyone in need by delivery only; Open for takeout Friday and Saturday evenings; 508-214-0366.
JB’s Pizza Bar & Grill: Open for takeout seven days a week from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., with delivery available from 4 to 9 p.m.; 508-349-5555
PB Boulangerie Bistro: The bakery is open 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. Wednesday through Monday; the bistro is open for takeout from 3 to 6 p.m., Wednesday through Monday; 508-349-1600
Grocery Stores
Blackfish Variety: Open seven days, 6 a.m. to 6 p.m.; 508-349-3322.
Wellfleet Marketplace: Open seven days to all, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.; to customers age 60 over only, 9 to 10 a.m.; curbside pickup available; 508-349-3156.
Hardware Store
Mid-Cape Home Centers: Open Monday through Friday, 6:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Saturday, 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.; delivery available; 508-349-3734.
Eastham
Restaurants
Brickhouse: Open for takeout only Thursday through Monday, 3 to 8 p.m.; 774-801-2475.
Joey’s Joint Open for takeout only, 11 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.; closed Wednesday and Sunday. 774-561-2968.
Mac’s Market and Kitchen: Open for takeout only seven days, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; 508-255-6900.
Red Barn: Open for takeout only seven days, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; 508-255-4500.
Grocery Stores
Eastham Superette: Open for curbside pickup only, Monday through Saturday, 6 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 6:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.; deli orders by phone only; 508-255-0530.
Mac’s Market and Kitchen: Open for takeout and delivery seven days, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; 508-255-6900.
Village Green General Store: Open seven days, 6 a.m. to 8 p.m.; 508-255-8455.
Hardware Store
Eastham Ace Hardware: Open Monday through Saturday, 7:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Sunday, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.; delivery available; 508-255-7155.
Orleans
Grocery Stores
Friend’s Marketplace: Open to all seven days, 8 a.m. to 7 p.m.; to customers age 60 and over only, 7 to 8 a.m.; curbside pickup available Monday through Friday, noon to 5 p.m.; delivery available Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, noon to 2 p.m. and 3 to 5 p.m.; place orders online or call 508-255-0963.
Nauset Farms: Open Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday through Saturday, 7 a.m. to 6 p.m.; 508-255-2800.
Shaw’s Orleans: Open seven days, 7 a.m. to 8 p.m.; 508-240-1021.
Stop & Shop Orleans: Open seven days, 7:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.; 508-255-5288.
WINTER HOURS
It’s Cold, You’re Hungry, You Have Options
Restaurateurs say they can be creative in winter
Every restaurant is a fiefdom, each with its own miniature culture and specifics so particular that it’s difficult to write about a lot of restaurants at once. Yet we Outer Cape year-rounders can all bond instantly around a shared hunger for restaurants that stay open in winter.
And an objective look at the winter eating options on the Outer Cape reveals a surprising conclusion: the winter is not as bleak as you think.
Sure, Jan. 1 clamps down like a lion’s jaw on the economy out here. But there’s food being served at 11 places in Eastham (including a new one, Good Eats on 6), 26 in Provincetown, eight in Wellfleet, and three in Truro — 48 choices in all.
Even on a Tuesday, even in January, you can find dinner in every town.
See our list, which includes restaurants open year-round (YRRND) as well as our best attempt to tell you when mostly year-round restaurants take winter breaks of a few weeks to over a month. Most winter places take a couple of days off during the week but are not entirely closed. So while it may look dire midweek, don’t count out those spots on Friday and Saturday nights.
Here are a few tales of start-ups and survivors on the 2020 winter list.
The Newbies
Clifford and Amelia Harvey opened the Brickhouse Restaurant in Eastham in May 2018 and are about to begin their second winter season.
Originally from Jamaica, Clifford, the owner-chef, arrived in the U.S. on a J-1 student worker visa and remained, working at Fanizzi’s Restaurant in Provincetown for 11 years.
“I started working in the salads and became the sous chef,” he said.
In 2018, he walked into the former Jimmy D’s, a roadside bar on Route 6 that had been vacant and was “leaking and creaking,” he said.
In the dead of winter, with no heat, they remodeled, ripped up carpets and “cleaned a lot,” he said. They would drop off their daughters (now 12 and 6) at school and work until dark on their newly purchased building.
“Going through the first winter, we were really nervous, because we didn’t know what it was going to be like,” he said.
They had a breakthrough when they decided to offer music on Friday nights. “It just took off and it started a trend,” Harvey said. “Every Friday the place was packed — and that was awesome for a place on Cape Cod in the winter.”
Harvey said he adapts his winter menu to serve more comfort food at more affordable prices. Because people don’t have the same cash flow as in summer, the Brickhouse offers early-bird specials from 4 to 6 p.m.: $16.99 for three courses.
His dishes are American with a Caribbean flair. Harvey likes Jamaican jerk seasoning — except he removes the really hot spices.
“We eliminate the spice and add the flavor,” he said.
His jerk salmon, for example, is seasoned but not hot. He serves it with coconut rice and mango salsa.
The Up-and-coming
Spindler’s in Provincetown is in its fourth year, and the staff has evolved into a compact but lively winter animal. The restaurant space has multiple rooms and a patio. But in winter they close some of the dining areas and shrink from 120 seats to 50.
“You can be more creative with 50 seats,” said executive chef Liam Luttrell-Rowland.
Spindler’s keeps a rotating list of offerings through the winter, with Mexican nights midweek and Chef Sunday Suppers, when a three-course meal is served family style for $25.
“This is a cozy space that allows us to entertain with food,” Luttrell-Rowland said. “This is how we interact with the people who make up Provincetown. If we were closed, we’d only see the tourist community.”
Spindler’s still loses money in the dead of winter, but, the chef said, it’s “a process,” and they hope to just break even one day. But there are important reasons to stay open besides money, he said.
Retaining staff is one. A good team makes a huge difference in quality and in atmosphere, said bartender Jobie Jacomine.
It’s hard to deliver deliciousness if you’re open only in the high season when you’re slammed with customers and there’s little time for creativity.
“For me, I have to keep cooking,” Luttrell-Rowland said. “Not that you cannot be good if you’re open only in high season. But intention is everything with food.”
If your interest is only making money, the food will reflect that. If your intention is to be part of a community, that, too, will come out in the food, he said.
“To fulfill my mission to be a chef, it’s not the bottom line, it’s not a paycheck — it’s creating a dining culture,” he said.
To that end, Luttrell-Rowland will join Michael Ceraldi, Jonathan Haffmans, and Jeremiah Reardon for a Winter Chef’s Table on Sunday, Jan. 19, at Wellfleet Preservation Hall. It’s a fund-raiser for the hall and will include a special menu with wine and oysters.
The Regional Approach
Mac’s Fish House in Provincetown stays open all year, operating at a loss for several months, say owners Mac and Alex Hay. Owning several restaurants and fish markets from Chatham to Provincetown allows them to reach different markets at different times. That said, staying open on the tip of Cape Cod with as large a dining room as Mac’s Fish House takes commitment. The Hays do it to attract talented staff who are also committed.
“We want to build culture and continuity,” said Mac Hay. “We have great employees and we want them and their families to stick around.”
Hay said he has executive chefs and general managers who relocated with their families, sometimes from overseas or from restaurants in Boston and New York, in order to work in one of his restaurants and live on Cape Cod. They depend on year-round employment to make it work. If the restaurants did not stay open, even operating at a loss, it would not be possible to hire and retain someone with the skills for these top-level positions.
While he loses money in deep winter, it’s also costly to close for 30 or 60 days, due to unused inventory and expenses associated with maintaining the building, Hay added.
Hay does shut Mac’s Shack in Wellfleet at the end of the summer, in part because all of its plumbing is on the exterior of the building. The bar is outdoors, with a 20-foot-wide opening between the back of the bar and the kitchen for expediting food and drinks. To stay open year-round, the restaurant would require significant upgrades.
The Veteran
No one has pondered these factors more than Bob Montano, owner-chef of Montano’s, which has been year-round for 32 years in Truro.
Montano’s was once Thompson’s Clam Bar, Janopolis’ Family Table, and Capt’n Josie’s. And yet many long-time residents don’t remember anything but Montano’s.
“I bought the restaurant in 1988,” Montano said. “I was 26 years old. And we’re still doing it all year-round.”
He does it because he likes to work, and his staff needs regular paychecks — “That’s important to me,” he said.
And his staff must appreciate the continuity, because its “nucleus” has been with him the entire 32 years, Montano said. This includes his kitchen manager and front-of-the-house manager. A cook recently retired because he was in his 70s, or he, too, would have made it to 32 years.
“Then I have people who have been with me 10 and 15 years and also five years, and we garnish that with other people in the summer season,” he said.
Montano said he’s learned how to buy and prep for a slower season, and so he doesn’t lose as much money as he used to in the winter. Still, many winter days are unprofitable.
But, he said, “Not every day is about the almighty dollar. For me, I love the off-season. It’s fun, it’s local, it’s friendly and enjoyable working conditions, as opposed to the onslaught of the summer.”
Winter weather is a big deal. Storms will kill your weekend, and unseasonable warmth brings out lots of second-home owners and suddenly you’re slammed, he said. (Many restaurant owners concurred on this.)
“That’s why winters are so tough,” Montano said. “Guessing when you’re going to be busy, having enough help…. But mostly, we’re open because I want to be here for my staff, my community, and myself.”
The List: Where to Eat in the Winter
Because plans change, it’s best to call ahead to be sure.
EASTHAM
1. Bellamy’s
(508) 255-5000
YRRND
2. Brickhouse Restaurant
(774) 801-2475
YRRND
Closed Wednesdays
3. Brine
(774) 561-2967
YRRND
Closed Mondays
4. Chocolate Café
(508) 240-0070
Closed Feb.15 until first week of April.
5. Good Eats on 6
(774) 801-2404
YRRND
Closed Mondays
6. Hole in One and Fairway Restaurant
(508) 255-9446
YRRND
7. Joey’s Joint
(774) 561-2968
Closed Wednesdays and Sundays and 1 or 2 weeks in March.
8. Local Break
(508) 255-6100
YRRND
9. Mac’s Market & Kitchen
(508) 255-6900
YRRND
Closed Tuesdays
10. The Red Barn Pizza and More
(508) 255-4500
YRRND
11. Royal Thai Cuisine
(508) 240-3888
YRRND
PROVINCETOWN
1.1620 Brewhouse
(774) 593-5180
Closed 1 week in March (usually 3rd week).
2. Angel Foods
(508) 487-6666
YRRND
3. Bayside Betsy’s
(508) 487-6566
Re-opening Jan. 4
(Check open days)
4. Chach
(508) 487-1530
Closed for a month, mid-March to mid-April.
5. Ciro and Sal’s
(508) 487-6444
YRRND
6. Crown and Anchor
(508) 487-1430
Closed Jan. 1 to Feb. 13.
7. Crowne Pointe Restaurant
(508) 487-6767
YRRND
8. East End Market
(508) 487-2339
YRRND
9. Fanizzi’s
(508) 487-1964
YRRND
10. Far Land Provisions
(508) 487-0045
YRRND
11. George’s Pizza
(508) 487-3744
YRRND
12. Governor Bradford Restaurant
(508) 487-2781
YRRND
13. Jimmy’s Hideaway
(508) 487-1011
Closed Jan. 1 to Feb. 14
14. Joon
(508) 413-9336
Closed until Jan. 16
15. Liz’s Café Anybody’s Bar
(508) 413-9131
YRRND
16. Local 186
(508) 487-7555
YRRND (winter pop up)
(Check open days)
17. Mac’s Fish House Provincetown
(508) 487-6227
YRRND
18. The Mews Restaurant & Cafe
(508) 487-1500
YRRND
19. Napi’s Restaurant
(508) 487-1145
YRRND
20. Provincetown Brewing Company
(508) 418-4499
YRRND
Closed Tuesday and Wednesday.
21. Ross’ Grille
(508) 487-8878
YRRND
Closed Monday–Thursday.
22. The Landing Bistro & Bar (Pilgrim House)
(508) 487-6424
YRRND
Dinner Thursday through Saturday from 5:30 p.m.
Sunday Drag Brunch from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.
23. Spindler’s
508) 487-6400
Closed Jan. 1−Jan. 17 (Open Jan. 18−20)
Closed Jan. 21–Feb. 14.
24. Squealing Pig
(508) 487-5804
Closed month of January.
25. The Canteen
(508) 487-3800
YRRND
26. Tin Pan Alley
(508) 487-1648
Open holiday weekends through April.
TRURO
1. Box Lunch
(508) 487-4545
YRRND
2. Montano’s
(508) 487-2026
YRRND
3. Savory and the Sweet Escape
(508) 487-2225
YRRND
WELLFLEET
1. Bookstore and Restaurant
(508) 349-3154
Closed until Feb. 6
(Check open days)
2. Box Lunch
(508) 349-2178
YRRND
Closed Sunday
3. CShore Kitchen + Bar
(508) 349-7500
YRRND
4. The Fox and Crow Cafe
(508) 214-0366
YRRND
Closed Tuesday and Wednesday
Open Thurs.−Mon. for breakfast
Open Fri. and Sat. for pizza nights and occasional special menus
5. JB’s Pizza Bar & Grill
(508) 349-5555
YRRND
6. PB Boulangerie Bistro
(508) 349-1600
YRRND
Closed Monday and Tuesday
7. The Well Tavern + Kitchen
(508) 214-0038
YRRND
Closed Monday and Tuesday
8. The Wicked Oyster
(508) 349-3455
Closed from President’s Day until first week of April
