Every year since I was 15 years old, I’ve biked the Cape Cod Rail Trail end to end.
The tradition started when I was even younger; my best friend and I would bike sections of the trail. But as we got older, we started doing the whole 45-mile round-trip ride every year. It was a challenge that would leave us sore for days but satisfied with our achievement.
Now that I work in Provincetown, it’s clear that there’s something incomplete about our feat. Yes, we were biking the length of the Rail Trail, but the Cape doesn’t end in South Wellfleet. What about all the rest of Wellfleet plus Truro and Provincetown that we were leaving untouched? Still, without an extension of the Rail Trail, our only option would be biking on Route 6 — or so I thought.
In 2018, the Mass. Dept. of Conservation and Recreation proposed extending the trail, which would have brought it a little bit closer to the bike paths around Provincetown. But the following year Wellfleet voters rejected the plan. The path now ends at the Wellfleet Hollow State Campground (formerly Paine’s).
This year I decided to forge my own northern extension of the route, and I persuaded two reporter colleagues, Sophie Mann-Shafir and Dorothea Samaha, to join me. The rules were simple: we would bike from the northern end of the official version of the Cape Cod Rail Trail into downtown Provincetown using only public roads and avoiding Route 6 as much as possible. We anticipated it would take 90 minutes to two hours to get there at a leisurely pace.
From the end of the trail, we turned left, biking through the campground despite the “No Bikes” and “Please Turn Around Here” signs, and onto Old Kings Highway. It was lovely, but we soon ran into a problem: there aren’t many back roads heading north through this part of Wellfleet. We had to choose between Ocean View Drive, which was out of the way, or a series of numbered “ways” that snake between the kettle ponds.
We opted to try the ways, and at first, things looked fine. The roads were dirt, but hard packed enough that we could bike through them. But when that dirt gave way to sand, biking became nearly impossible. I almost toppled off my bike when a patch of sand came loose, and then I skidded through a divot in the road. We decided to walk our bikes until we found firmer ground.
Emerging onto Long Pond Road, we crossed the bridge over Route 6 and headed into downtown Wellfleet. It was clear our presence on this road was not appreciated: a driver with New York plates shot me a death glare as he passed.
The ride through downtown Wellfleet was pleasant enough, though, and we took the road north by the Herring River marshes and Bound Brook Island. Here the green signs denoting a bike route seemed to mock us as cars roared by.
Entering Truro, we cheered, figuring that the brutal dirt road biking around the ponds had made Wellfleet the hardest stretch.
One of the things you don’t realize when traversing the Outer Cape by car is just how hilly it is. A five-degree slope in a car is nothing more than a little more pressure on the gas pedal. Not so when biking, and the back roads of Truro have so many five-degree slopes that this stretch began to feel like a joke: we’d crest a hill only to find on the other side yet another uphill climb. The downhill rides we did encounter seemed all too short and rarely gave us the momentum to get up the next hill. By midway through the town, we were walking our bikes up most of the hills.
We stopped at the Truro General Store to refill our water bottles. We were tired and hungry and only halfway to Provincetown.
After yet another uphill stretch with cars roaring by us, we were spat onto Route 6 at Castle Road. This was the one spot in Truro where the highway was unavoidable. It was a pretty unpleasant mile or so, thanks to the blaring sun and rumbling vehicles that sometimes passed too close.
As soon as we could, we left the highway and were back to snaking our way through North Truro. I envied the people who’d set out in the opposite direction on the Rail Trail, heading from South Wellfleet to Orleans.
On Shore Road, the route leveled out, and for the next five miles we enjoyed an easy (but windy) ride into Provincetown. Cars still whizzed by, but they gave us a little more space. By the time we were riding down Commercial Street, we were the ones speeding past them.
Our trip ended with lunch and a quick dip in the ocean to cool our aching muscles. It had taken us nearly two and a half hours to cover the 20-mile route. As we lounged in the water, we all agreed that we were glad we’d made the ride. We also agreed that we never wanted to bike that route again. Until the Rail Trail is officially extended to Provincetown, I’ll be keeping my bike riding south of Lecount Hollow.