We are precipitously close to spring, but the season still lags. Looking out on gloomy weather and shuttered shops, one can feel caught in stasis. Perhaps you are yearning for sun, spring blossoms, and lingering outdoor lunches. But emerging from your homey den, you may be wary of an ambush: Will you be pelted by freezing rain? Is anything even open?
This seasonal sense of foreboding has historical roots. The “Ides” refers to mid-month, and it was March 15, 44 B.C.E. that marked an infamous turning point in Roman history. Conspirators, led by Brutus and Cassius, assassinated Julius Caesar at a meeting of the senate, marking a crisis that set off the beginning of the end for the Roman Republic (the autocracy we know as the Roman Empire would go on for centuries).
So, should we heed Shakespeare’s warning to “beware the Ides of March”? This year, I’m determined to brave the worrisome connotations by finding inspiration in Roman gastronomy and patronizing a few local restaurants for a taste of good things to come. All are priced less than $20 because there’s that about March: plenty of wallets are a little thin at this distance from the busy season.
Back home, I immersed myself in this Ides idea by tucking into Feast of Sorrow by Boston writer and food lover Crystal King. Based on the life of ancient Rome’s fabled gourmand Marcus Gavius Apicius, it weaves a tale around De Re Culinaria, a collection of recipes meant to appeal to the wealthiest classes of the Republic — think the Roman Joy of Cooking.
In addition to scenes of scandal and political drama, the novel is chock full of mouthwatering descriptions of Roman food. Sections are delineated with actual recipes from De Re Culinaria, although recreating them without the now-extinct herb silphium, which is called for in nearly every dish, might be tough. The title was selected for a Massachusetts Book Award in 2018, and I can attest it’s in the CLAMS network.
Here’s a brief report from my early spring search for local dishes with Roman flair. But if the suggestion of venturing out into the March doldrums has you muttering “E tu, Brute?” I’ve got your back: a make-at-home taste of Rome in a plate of roasted cauliflower and chickpeas tossed with feta and pistachios. Romans enjoyed brined cheese and often incorporated exotic spices such as turmeric and cinnamon into their dishes. Here, I’ve added two optional ingredients: golden raisins, which were highly valued in Rome, as well as anise seed, which was favored as an after-dinner digestive. The combination is equally delicious served warm or chilled the next day.
Porridge at Sunbird Provisions
85 Route 6A, Orleans
Cereal was a mainstay in ancient Rome. Puls, a thick gruel, was served at most meals, although the preparation and ingredients reflected the social station of the diner. Lower classes ate theirs as a boiled pottage made of emmer wheat, an ancient grain, with little seasoning. The wealthy had porridge prepared with olive oil, often served with cheese or honey.
Sunbird uses a seed from Latin America as the base for its porridge. Red and white quinoa is paired with steamed coconut milk and topped with pickled cranberries, candied ginger, and pecans. It makes for a warm and nourishing midmorning snack — part of what the Romans would call their second meal of the day or prandium.
Cup of Soup at the Wicked Oyster
50 Main St., Wellfleet
Despite their reputation for decadence, most Romans ate vegetable-forward diets. Brassicas — cabbage, in particular — was a favorite. For the Romans, few ailments could not be cured by cabbage. Cruciferous vegetables were used for both medicinal (pulverized into a poultice) and culinary (braised and plated atop porridge) purposes. Garum, a fermented fish sauce, added a boost of umami. The slow-cooked broccoli puree at Wicked Oyster gains richness with a topping of almond and raisin pesto. Raisins were so prized in ancient Rome that they were used as currency.
Braised Cod Cheeks at Mac’s Fish House
85 Shank Painter Road, Provincetown
Romans were the first to develop sophisticated oyster farming. But they supped on many varieties of seafood, from sea trout to octopus to mullet. Fish was often poached with fresh herbs and wine, then garnished with a pesto-like sauce.
The braised cod cheeks at Mac’s Fish House are paired with two Roman favorites: fennel and capers. Roman warriors drank fennel tea to fortify their courage before battle. Capers? An aphrodisiac. Here, one adds subtle sweetness and the other a briny tang that makes the broth as lush as the fish. Dunk with the accompanying garlic bread like a true Roman elite — fluffy raised white bread was reserved for the upper classes.
Panelle at Cibo
15 Cove Road, Orleans
In addition to cereals and brassicas, the Romans ate a fair amount of legumes, including lentils, broad beans, garden peas, and chickpeas. Chickpeas could be found in porridges and soups and as a roasted crunchy snack. The latter was commonly served in taverns as a white wine accompaniment to encourage thirsty patrons to keep drinking.
Cibo’s owners, siblings Nick Muce and Antonella Fernandez, trace their roots to Sicily. One of their favorite dishes is panelle, a popular Italian street food. These chickpea fritters come as a slim patty, flavored simply with salt, pepper, and parsley, then drizzled with lemon juice. You can snack on them solo or order them as the filling for pressed panini. They reopen April 10 after their annual trip to (where else?) Italy.
ROASTED CAULIFLOWER AND CHICKPEAS WITH PISTACHIOS AND FETA
1 can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
1 head cauliflower, cut into florets
⅓ cup golden raisins
¼ cup olive or avocado oil
½ tsp. cumin
½ tsp. cinnamon
¼ tsp. turmeric
¼ tsp. anise seed
Dash of garlic powder
Salt and pepper to taste
4 oz. feta in brine, crumbled or diced
½ cup pistachios, shelled
½ cup parsley, coarsely chopped
1 lemon
Dash of paprika, for dusting lemon wedges
- Preheat oven to 350° F. Arrange chickpeas, cauliflower, and golden raisins on a sheet pan; drizzle with oil and sprinkle cumin, cinnamon, turmeric, and anise seed over veggies and toss to coat evenly. Season with the garlic powder and the salt and pepper.
- Roast for 30 minutes or until chickpeas begin to appear crunchy, turning with a flat-bottom spatula as needed.
- While vegetables roast, zest the lemon and set the zest aside for seasoning the mixture after it’s roasted. Cut the lemon into quarters.
- Place roasted vegetables in a large bowl, making sure to capture every last bit of leftover spiced oil from the pan. Stir in the feta, pistachios, parsley, and lemon zest.
- Garnish with paprika-dusted lemon wedges.
