A Dressing From Down South

People tend to be extremely biased about their Thanksgiving stuffings. They may try an unusual side vegetable or add a new pie recipe beyond the usual pumpkin and pecan (for me, that means three or more pies since the first two are grandfathered in). But when it come to the bread-based accompaniment that sits within, or next to, the turkey, most folks won’t suffer any improvisations.

So why am I writing about my favorite dressing? Well, because it’s the best one, of course. I grew up in Texas, and my mother’s traditional cornbread dressing has been at every one of my Thanksgiving meals. Even if I’m invited to someone else’s celebration, I bring it as an offering.

You’ll notice I call it dressing instead of stuffing. My mother, Polly, never put it in the bird. I realize the turkey drippings add flavor to the stuffing, but since this dressing is always topped with gravy, that is not a problem.

Cornbread dressing has deep Southern roots, with origins that stretch back to West Africa, according to Southern foodways experts Toni Tipton-Martin and Michael W. Twitty. This dish carries very fond memories for me. On Thanksgiving and Christmas, I usually woke up to the scent of my mom sautéing onions, carrots, and celery, which wafted up the stairs early in the morning. I would pad down in my pajamas to help, learning each step at an age when I could barely see over the stovetop.

Over the years, I’ve altered her recipe a bit. I don’t add her chopped hard-boiled egg, and instead of powdered sage from a jar I use a more expanded palette of fresh or dried herbs. This is an herb-forward dressing that celebrates the last harvest from the garden, including an optional celery relative called lovage. You can vary the flavors any way you like. Substituting rosemary, marjoram, or basil would take it in an interesting Mediterranean direction. Now that I’m a washashore, I might try adding local oysters like they do in Charleston. But to be clear, only the slightest alterations should be entertained. For me, an heirloom recipe that I enjoy only once a year needs to stay heartwarmingly classic.

POLLY’S CORNBREAD DRESSING
Serves 6

For the cornbread
2 eggs
1 cup buttermilk or milk
¼ cup cooking oil, olive oil preferred
½ tsp. salt
4 tsp. baking powder
1 cup yellow cornmeal (stoneground gives the best texture)
1 cup unbleached white flour
2 tsp. cooking oil for the frying pan

For the dressing
¼ cup cooking oil
2 Tbsp. butter
1½ cups chopped onion
1½ cups chopped carrots
1½ cups chopped celery
1 bay leaf (optional)
½ tsp. black pepper
3 Tbsp. chopped sage
3 tsp. thyme leaves, stems removed
3 tsp. chopped lovage (optional)
3 cups chicken stock
Salt to taste

Note: If you’re using dried herbs, use 1/3 the listed amount

To make the cornbread (it can also be baked a day ahead):

1. Preheat oven to 400° F; place a 10-inch baking pan or cast-iron skillet in the oven.
2. Beat eggs, milk, oil, and salt in a large bowl until well blended.
3. Sift baking powder into the mixture and whisk until foamy. Add the cornmeal and flour and beat by hand only until the batter is smooth.
4. Pull the baking pan out of the oven and swirl 2 teaspoons cooking oil around to coat the sides and bottom. Pour the batter into the hot pan (this method makes a browned crust).
5. Bake for 20 minutes until an inserted knife comes out clean.
6. When it has cooled, turn the cornbread out of the pan and crumble it with your fingers on a cookie sheet. It should have a rough, not too fine texture. You want a variety of crumb sizes. The breadcrumbs can sit out uncovered for a few hours or even overnight. A little staleness is preferable.

To assemble the dressing:

1. Preheat the oven to 400° Heat the cooking oil and butter in a wide skillet. Slowly sauté the onion, carrots, celery, and bay leaf over medium heat until the onion becomes transparent and the carrots are soft. Do not brown. Add herbs and black pepper and cook for a few more minutes.
2. Put the crumbled cornbread into a large mixing bowl and add the ingredients from the skillet and the stock. Fold briefly with a spatula until the mixture becomes a thick batter. Taste a spoonful for salt and add more if necessary.
3. Pour the dressing mixture into an 8-by-10 baking dish and tamp it down into the corners.
4. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes until golden brown and crispy around the edges. Serve warm from the oven.