Somewhere along the road, eggnog fell into a ditch. Exalted until the late ’70s, it got tossed out with all those avocado-green appliances. It’s all but disappeared now, save for a forlorn booze-free carton or two at the shadowy end of the dairy aisle. But in Puerto Rico, an island version of this vintage drink still has a central place during la Navidad, which at 45 days is the longest holiday season on Earth.
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“The holidays in Puerto Rico begin when you smell the coquito in the kitchen,” says Eric. My husband is from Bayamón, a suburb of San Juan. “Once the Christmas lights are up, you need to have the coquito ready for visitors.”
Just don’t call it eggnog or say it tastes like a piña colada. Having married into the Alvarez family, most of whom are still living on the island, I know firsthand that such casual comparisons will draw blank stares — or worse, a curse.
Coquito, “little coconut,” has a richness that comes from coconut cream and warmth from rum and spices. An egg yolk is optional. Eric’s family is all for it. But I make mine without. I can’t convince myself the rum will ward off the dangers that lurk there — no matter how rare they may be.
There are lots of ways to put your own festive spin on it, and experimentation is encouraged. Add a little pistachio, ginger, peppermint, chocolate liqueur, or a couple of extra shots of rum (for Santa’s nerves).
Coquito
Makes one quart
1 cup water
4 cinnamon sticks
½ tsp. cloves
4-6 whole star anise pods
2 Tbsp. vanilla extract
8 oz. evaporated milk
8 oz. sweetened condensed milk
8 oz. cream of coconut
1 cup or more white rum
1 egg yolk (optional)
Ground cinnamon for garnish
- In a small saucepan, combine water, cinnamon sticks, cloves, star anise, and vanilla. Bring to a boil and then simmer until reduced by half.
- In a blender, mix the milks and cream of coconut. Every Puerto Rican will tell you to use the Coco Lopez brand, but you can use any of them.
- Pour spice mixture through a fine wire-mesh strainer into milk mixture.
- Add the egg yolk now, if you dare. Eric’s family says it makes the coquito richer and thicker.
- Add rum to taste — a cup to start. White rum is traditional, although you may find dark rum a bit more suffonsifying.
- Refrigerate until thoroughly cool, preferably overnight. An empty wine bottle with the cork put back in it is an excellent vessel for storing and serving.
- Shake vigorously before pouring over ice in a charming cocktail glass of your choosing.
- Garnish with a sprinkle of cinnamon.
Now set your Christmas lights to rapid blinking, stream La Lupe’s “Puro Teatro,” and experience la Feliz Navidad.