After what felt like a glorious extra month of summer, someone hit the fast-forward button rather abruptly last week and we have landed, with a thud and a rustle of […]
PASSOVER
Spring Greens and Bitter Herbs
Reflection and nourishment for the season of renewal
“April is the cruelest month,” a friend said to me recently, involuntarily quoting T.S. Eliot. I instantly understood all the ways they both meant it. The trees almost have buds, […]
NOURISHED
Broccoli Rabe, Right Away
Thinking ahead to put you and your greens in tender conversation
Last week, I made a joke about dropping all of my New Year’s resolutions in favor of a commitment to eat 52 different kinds of soup instead. A friend reached […]
FROM SCRATCH
While Short Ribs Simmer, a Kitchen Memoir Takes Shape
A soup to accompany a writer’s weird limbo
There’s a marked difference between the menace of blizzard snow, icy and gravelly against the window, and what’s happening here today. Today, the sun is just barely shining through the […]
COCKTAIL HOUR
A Mouthful of Flowers
The drink for when spring inspiration eludes the cook
I’ve had my nose in the books. I spent this winter dragging the first draft of a food memoir out of the dish pits of my mind. As a counterpoint […]
FROM THE SNACKBOOK
Satisfying Wanderlust With Homemade Naan
India’s tender, chewy, charred bread, in a skillet
When my husband and I moved to Provincetown in 2014, we did it in pursuit of more time. We were tired of the constant grind of New York City, tired […]
FROM THE SNACKBOOK
The Alchemy of a Steamed Sweet Potato
A fluffy, custardy new companion for the season of comfort food
I don’t know about you, but it’s going to take me a while to remember what true wanderlust feels like. The last two years, painful and disorienting as they have […]
FROM THE SNACKBOOK
A Garlicky Deviation From Hanukkah Tradition
Crispy potato pancakes, creamy sauce — a miraculous combination
As a kid, I wasn’t sure how I felt about Hanukkah in November. Whenever that happened, it meant we got presents before everyone else. That was fun. On the other […]
FROM THE SNACKBOOK
An Umami-Rich Pasta for the Changing Season
Don’t forget to warm up the bowl
That slight bite in the air — the one that makes you roll your shirtsleeves down, pull on a hat, and recognize the crunch of leaves as you walk — […]
FROM THE SNACKBOOK
Cold Carrot Soup for Don’t-Turn-on-the-Oven Days
Fresh ginger, lime juice, and avocado make it something special
For a moment, let’s reflect on what a lucky feeling it is to find yourself in a cookout rut. It means you have been able to get yourself good food, […]
FROM THE SNACKBOOK
Butter Things Up, Herbaceously
A stash of herb butter in the freezer is a gift to your future self
The mental and emotional thaw after a long, hard winter is always a relief, though it isn’t without its intricacies. Mainly, it’s easy to get overwhelmed by so much possibility […]
FROM THE SNACKBOOK
Green Soup for Spring
A not-exactly vichyssoise that’s just right for spring’s vicissitudes
The first official day of spring arrives this weekend. It took me many years of living in New England to realize that this is nature’s favorite joke. Here it’s picnic […]
FROM THE SNACKBOOK
Twice Baked, the Humble Hero of a Winter Picnic
The good life is a potato, warmed in the coals, and carried in a pocket
Since nearly a year ago, I’ve been cultivating a small, dedicated, cautious band of creative weirdos. We are, as they say, a “pod.” Keeping each other safe, (reasonably) calm, fed, […]
FROM THE SNACKBOOK
Stuffed Clams: Guarantee of Good Will
Foraging for clams, space, and happiness
It is easy to forget how special it is to be able to find free seafood across the street. I’m a washashore from a landlocked desert state, so it still […]
KITCHEN TABLE
Reliable, Not-Too-Sour New York Deli Rye
A simple overnight starter makes a victory loaf
It is such a strange feeling to snatch victory from the jaws of defeat, take a triumphant inhale, and realize that — big exhale — everything around you is still […]
