For John Birdsall, the confluence of cooking and queerness goes way back. Birdsall started his cooking career at Greens, the restaurant that originally opened as part of the San Francisco […]
THE COCKTAIL
Raising a Glass to Revolution and Resistance
A blackberry-thyme version of the French 75 to stave off relocation
It’s weird how many drinks we consider classics were first mixed in France — a country that doesn’t really do cocktails. Admittedly, many of them were concocted largely for American […]
FROM THE LARDER
A Forgotten Jar of Sumac Brightens a Rainy-Day Dinner
Palestinian mussakhan marinated for the grill is just as good roasted indoors
In food, as in art, one never quite knows where inspiration will come from. Sometimes the fruits of the season demand attention, such as when the peas come in, or […]
FROM THE LARDER
Redeeming the Loveless Lima Bean
A lemony yogurt dressing and a fistful of fresh herbs give butter beans the boost they need for spring
Here’s an experiment: the next time you’re chatting with a friend, mention that you’re going to make lima beans for supper. Nine times out of 10 the response you’ll get […]
FROM THE LARDER
A Soup to Come Home To
After a winter escape, a return to spring minestrone
There is something perhaps unadventurous in an annual pilgrimage. But travel is only half about seeking: the other half is escape. I didn’t dream that up, but when I read […]
NEW ORLEANS DISPATCH
A Cure for the Day After Mardi Gras (Also Recommended for Winter in Truro)
Ya-ka-mein proves that the intersection of cultures is what makes America great
It’s a bright and cool late morning in New Orleans and we’re lingering over the last of our coffee (me) and tea (Christopher) on the little front porch of our […]
FROM THE LARDER
Transported by Tagine
Putting memories of Morocco’s warmth to simmer on the stove
It’s so cold that Eartha Kitt has stopped going outside entirely. She’s our cat, and she’s going soft in her old age. She stands and peers out the sidelight, but […]
MALAGA DISPATCH
A Souvenir From Southern Spain
In a seaside city, a recipe for meatballs is the favorite
It’s because of Málaga’s market that we are in southern Spain right now, eating meatballs, instead of in Truro, watching the northern lights. Even though we only briefly passed through […]
FROM THE LARDER
It’s Not Dutch, and It’s Not a Baby
End of summer supper with Pops
It’s weird how much I long for both the coming of summer and its end. We’re breathing a little more easily now, as the year shifts into a slower tempo, […]
FROM THE LARDER
Low and Slow Is the Way to Go With a Bumper Crop of Beans
Sweet and luscious green beans, braised the way a Louisiana grandmother made them
I had a lot of things for the first time in college. Sex, for example — that was a keeper. And bagels. We didn’t have bagels where I grew up. […]
FROM THE DUCHESS OF SANDWICH
Rebecca Orchant’s Memoir Simmers and Sears
The queer kitchen stories of one steamy Provincetown sandwich maker
Rebecca Orchant had me with grilled cheese sandwiches for breakfast. Her father made her one every morning in the kitchen of their house on Quixote Drive when she was growing […]
FROM THE LARDER
Cocktail Hour for a Lazy Summer Day
Pickled oysters and a pitcher of drinks to make ahead, then serve with flair
After one of his days at the beach, Christopher sees nothing wrong with inviting friends to get together for drinks without giving the first thought to what we’ll serve with […]
FROM THE LARDER
Planning the Next Bowlful of Risi e Bisi
Garden peas in flower a Venetian summer dish
Every year I tempt fate and plant my peas dangerously early. It’s worth the risk so that I can look out on gray, chilly spring days and see green poking up in the […]
MELBOURNE DISPATCH
An Essential Condiment Comes Home From Down Under
Fragrant chili oil makes noodles and greens memorable
It’s no secret: I’m promiscuous. About condiments, that is. I’ve almost never met a condiment I didn’t like. In my experience, having some good ones on hand means almost anything […]
DIY
Jars Are His Jam
One handy model that’s just the ticket for summer cocktails, garden seeds, or screws
I’m judgmental about food packaging. Some of it I find infuriating: All that waste! You know what I mean: lettuce in plastic boxes, green beans trapped in sealed bags. But […]
