First a little history. When the Moors invaded Spain in the Eighth Century, they introduced rice and saffron into the Spanish culinary oeuvre. Delicious, savory paella and sweet arroz con leche are still two of Spain’s national dishes.
In 1493, Christopher Columbus and Ponce de León introduced rice, as well as centuries of oppression, to the Caribbean island of Borinquen. The arrival of arroz con leche, however, was delayed by the island’s lack of cows. Coconut milk became a substitute for dairy and arroz con dulce or “sweet rice” became forevermore an island favorite, especially at the holidays.
Sometime in the 1960s, on that same island we know today as Puerto Rico, my husband Eric Rafael Alvarez-Ayala was born in San Juan. It was Eric who introduced arroz con dulce into our lives in the early 2000s, and I have been avoiding it during every holiday season since.
But I’m happy to report that Eric’s arroz con dulce is heartily enjoyed by other people. Friends and family have devoured it in my presence time and time again. There’s always lots of jubilant praise. Seriously, people love it.
Eric doesn’t need to use a recipe because this dessert was taught to him by his abuela and is deeply rooted in his memory. Still, he frets over his saucepan every year trying to get the flavor of Abuela’s pudding exactly right.
“Can you taste it and tell me if it needs something?” Eric inevitably asks while he’s preparing it. “Where did the dog go?” I answer. “I better go look.”
“Just tell me what it’s missing,” Eric says, a hot spoonful of rice pointed in my direction.
“Sleeping pills? Cannabis?” I reply. “How about honey? The Moors were super into sweetening things with honey.” I’ve found that being able to speak about the history of arroz con dulce is an effective way to avoid eating it. I talk while the rest of the table digs in.
“I’m going to add more cinnamon,” he says. Every. Time.
The dish is easy to make and travels well. The main thing to know is there’s a lot of waiting around before you start because the rice has to soak for three hours. Once it’s done, there’s more waiting, this time for the whole thing to chill and set.
When it’s just us, I serve arroz con dulce with two martinis. I finish one and then offer to trade my untouched dessert for Eric’s martini. Or I just make myself another one. Either way, everyone is satisfied.
ARROZ CON DULCE
1½ cups medium-grain white rice
1 inch peeled whole ginger
4 cinnamon sticks
1 tsp. salt
1 13.5-oz. can coconut milk
1 15-oz. can cream of coconut
½ cup raisins (some recipes suggest simmering them in brandy)
Stick cinnamon to taste
Toppings: whipped cream and berries (optional but encouraged); other options include quick-hardening chocolate syrup, caramel, chocolate chips, crushed toffee, almond slivers
- Soak the rice in water for three hours. Drain and discard the starchy water you’ve soaked it in before you proceed.
- Bring 4 cups of water to a boil in a large saucepan. Add ginger, cinnamon, and salt. Lower heat to medium-low; simmer 10 minutes. Remove from heat and discard spices.
- Stir coconut milk and cream of coconut into the spiced liquid and bring to a low boil. Add the drained rice and the raisins. Lower heat to medium-low; cover and simmer until the rice is soft and the liquid is absorbed (about 15-20 minutes).
- Pour mixture into a mold — Eric uses a loaf pan. Refrigerate until cold and serve with the desired toppings.
